I started out with a coolant leak, and after replacing the upper bypass hose and still having a leak, I looked further into it and the leak was coming from the timing chain cover. I figured while I was already rippin it apart, I would replace the timing chain and water pump. The only timing chain I could find was a O.E. replacement single roller chain...it came from NAPA, so hopefully it will last another 100k miles. The old one had a lot of slop in it. The timing chain was intimidating reading about how to do it, but it was easy to replace.

I got a felpro gasket set for the timing chain cover, which came with the seal and water pump gaskets, along with a new o-ring. I didnt rip the oil pan gasket, so I just reused it. Water pump went on easy also. The hardest part was setting up the right 3 jaw pulled to pull the harmonic balancer from the inside. Put it all back together and so far no leaks! Engine runs great too!

Thanks for all your help guys!

 

I still need to do that on mine. There are tons of timing chain options though. Jegs, Summit, and many others sell performance timing chains or Mopar replacements.

 

The one I got seemed pretty good. This long weekend was the only chance I had to replace it for awhile. The thing that sucks about alaska is it takes forever to get stuff sometimes!

 

what significant changes would i notice when i put a double roller chain in?



congrats on a job well done

 

You're truck will actually drive like new when you replace the chain. Meaning, when you step on the gas it actually goes, instead of lugging for a split second and then picking up.

Avoid the Cloyes HD double chain. I replaced my original at 60K on the recommendation of others with the Cloyes and at 97K it was stretched worse than the original. I'd pay for a better chain.

Try JP performance or Rollmaster. They make good chains, and this isn't something you want to do again any time soon.

Manicini racing and Hughes engines sell a "tool" for removing the crank nut, it bolts onto the harmonic balancer where the crank pulley goes and will help you break it free.

Here's an example: http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/damperholder.html

Use the guide over at pavementsucks.com and set the engine to TDC #6 cylinder, not #1 cylinder and you can line up the new gears dot to dot. DO NOT, under any circumstances, move the crankshaft's position without the chain and gears on both the crankshaft and camshaft, or you'll be screwed.

The camshaft can be moved very slightly, but it should only need to be moved maybe 1/8" either way to get the the dots to line up, and that's only if your chain was really stretched out. Don't foul up your crankshaft to camshaft relationship, or you'll be taking a crash course in degreeing a camshaft.

I know that sounds harsh and scary, and it isn't meant to scare you from the job, just know that you need to be very sure what you are doing when you get down to that final step.

 

Ty for that information