Vacuum and fluid leak issues
Vacuum and fluid leak issues
Alright guys I crawled under my truck 15 min ago, Found out a few things.
1.the first exhaust guy cant weld for ****.
2.im leaking trans fluid.
3. BOTH of my axles are leaking in the rear and im almost positive the front too.
4.I got some play in my front drive shaft,(I have a vibration in 4X4 over 30 mph), Not alot but enough for me to push and feel it give a little
5. I have a loose vac line. No idea where it goes. Its above the transfer case, It goes to a small metal line that mounts to something and the other end is open too. (just great)
But the vac line I couldnt see to well it is dark outside, So any ideas?
Also should I be afraid to drop the trans pan because of the trans slipping? like the particles in the trans fluid is keeping them from slipping? Ive heard of that before.
Thanks,
Cheat.
(can someone change the title to a few problems. I first thought two but I kept remembering more. Thanks.)
1.the first exhaust guy cant weld for ****.
2.im leaking trans fluid.
3. BOTH of my axles are leaking in the rear and im almost positive the front too.
4.I got some play in my front drive shaft,(I have a vibration in 4X4 over 30 mph), Not alot but enough for me to push and feel it give a little
5. I have a loose vac line. No idea where it goes. Its above the transfer case, It goes to a small metal line that mounts to something and the other end is open too. (just great)
But the vac line I couldnt see to well it is dark outside, So any ideas?
Also should I be afraid to drop the trans pan because of the trans slipping? like the particles in the trans fluid is keeping them from slipping? Ive heard of that before.
Thanks,
Cheat.
(can someone change the title to a few problems. I first thought two but I kept remembering more. Thanks.)
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
i think you should stop crawling under your truck. it causes too many things to go wrong all at once.
1. if your exhaust is leaking take it back and let your welder practice some more.
2. you should drop the pan and change fluid and filter every 1-2 years or every 15-30k miles. if you've not done this regularly, then its just my opinion that you should do it twice the first time. do it once, then drive it for 1 or 2 or 3 weeks, it doesn't really matter how long, and then change it again. i read a lot of horror stories about how newly serviced transmissions fail. you can debate it, but i'll never be convinced that fresh new ATF+4 fluid DIRECTLY causes a old transmission to fail. however, i do believe that fresh new fluid dissolves sludge back into solution, which clogs the filter, which overheats the trans, which causes failure. so in my feeble mind, i think OLD fluid should be changed out at least twice, maybe three times. also - put in a drain plug to make it easier.
3. leaking at the rear wheels - put in new seals. see haynes manual. also change diff fluid. front seals are hard. change the fluid only, keep it full, and hope for the best.
4. drive slower in 4wd. next.
5. one vac line goes from the engine to the t-case. two vac lines go from t-case to CAD. replace any that are broken, otherwise you have no 4wd at the wheels, or else the wheels never unlock.
here's almost everything you need to know.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm
except what you really need to know, if that when you get tired of fixing the cad, replace the vac control with a manual posilok cable for $200.
1. if your exhaust is leaking take it back and let your welder practice some more.
2. you should drop the pan and change fluid and filter every 1-2 years or every 15-30k miles. if you've not done this regularly, then its just my opinion that you should do it twice the first time. do it once, then drive it for 1 or 2 or 3 weeks, it doesn't really matter how long, and then change it again. i read a lot of horror stories about how newly serviced transmissions fail. you can debate it, but i'll never be convinced that fresh new ATF+4 fluid DIRECTLY causes a old transmission to fail. however, i do believe that fresh new fluid dissolves sludge back into solution, which clogs the filter, which overheats the trans, which causes failure. so in my feeble mind, i think OLD fluid should be changed out at least twice, maybe three times. also - put in a drain plug to make it easier.
3. leaking at the rear wheels - put in new seals. see haynes manual. also change diff fluid. front seals are hard. change the fluid only, keep it full, and hope for the best.
4. drive slower in 4wd. next.
5. one vac line goes from the engine to the t-case. two vac lines go from t-case to CAD. replace any that are broken, otherwise you have no 4wd at the wheels, or else the wheels never unlock.
here's almost everything you need to know.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm
except what you really need to know, if that when you get tired of fixing the cad, replace the vac control with a manual posilok cable for $200.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Feb 3, 2010 at 08:09 PM.
Professional
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
i do believe that fresh new fluid dissolves sludge back into solution, which clogs the filter, which overheats the trans, which causes failure. so in my feeble mind, i think OLD fluid should be changed out at least twice, maybe three times. also - put in a drain plug to make it easier.
i think you should stop crawling under your truck. it causes too many things to go wrong all at once.
1. if your exhaust is leaking take it back and let your welder practice some more.
2. you should drop the pan and change fluid and filter every 1-2 years or every 15-30k miles. if you've not done this regularly, then its just my opinion that you should do it twice the first time. do it once, then drive it for 1 or 2 or 3 weeks, it doesn't really matter how long, and then change it again. i read a lot of horror stories about how newly serviced transmissions fail. you can debate it, but i'll never be convinced that fresh new ATF+4 fluid DIRECTLY causes a old transmission to fail. however, i do believe that fresh new fluid dissolves sludge back into solution, which clogs the filter, which overheats the trans, which causes failure. so in my feeble mind, i think OLD fluid should be changed out at least twice, maybe three times. also - put in a drain plug to make it easier.
3. leaking at the rear wheels - put in new seals. see haynes manual. also change diff fluid. front seals are hard. change the fluid only, keep it full, and hope for the best.
4. drive slower in 4wd. next.
5. one vac line goes from the engine to the t-case. two vac lines go from t-case to CAD. replace any that are broken, otherwise you have no 4wd at the wheels, or else the wheels never unlock.
here's almost everything you need to know.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm
except what you really need to know, if that when you get tired of fixing the cad, replace the vac control with a manual posilok cable for $200.
1. if your exhaust is leaking take it back and let your welder practice some more.
2. you should drop the pan and change fluid and filter every 1-2 years or every 15-30k miles. if you've not done this regularly, then its just my opinion that you should do it twice the first time. do it once, then drive it for 1 or 2 or 3 weeks, it doesn't really matter how long, and then change it again. i read a lot of horror stories about how newly serviced transmissions fail. you can debate it, but i'll never be convinced that fresh new ATF+4 fluid DIRECTLY causes a old transmission to fail. however, i do believe that fresh new fluid dissolves sludge back into solution, which clogs the filter, which overheats the trans, which causes failure. so in my feeble mind, i think OLD fluid should be changed out at least twice, maybe three times. also - put in a drain plug to make it easier.
3. leaking at the rear wheels - put in new seals. see haynes manual. also change diff fluid. front seals are hard. change the fluid only, keep it full, and hope for the best.
4. drive slower in 4wd. next.
5. one vac line goes from the engine to the t-case. two vac lines go from t-case to CAD. replace any that are broken, otherwise you have no 4wd at the wheels, or else the wheels never unlock.
here's almost everything you need to know.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm
except what you really need to know, if that when you get tired of fixing the cad, replace the vac control with a manual posilok cable for $200.
1. its been fixed but i was just commenting on how bad the first exhaust shop was.
2. True, Would a trans temp gauge help?
3.The rear seals are hard to change? Do you have a idea on how many hours of work?
4. Hate to break it but 4x4 is not used entirely for low speeds. It shouldnt do that, What so ever. Could the play be u-joints?
5.But, My 4x4 locks in. I can feel the stearing get stiffer and it pulls better. So any other ideas? could it be charcoil canster? I got a CEL for that but havnt tracked that problem down, just thought I would take a look to see what needed to be greased soon ect. and noticed alot.
Thanks,
Cheat.