$100 wasted, still happening.
i checked the crank pulley already and its ok, just went and checked thr ac clutch and it seems to be fine.. this thing is a nightmare
actually to tell you the truth i had this happen once.
my belt was sliding off the idle pulley halfway. (half the belt touched half didnt) and it was because the washer for the idle pulley was on the wrong side so it was misaligned,(when i took t off doing plenum) but looked completly straight when looking at it.
Hope that helps.
my belt was sliding off the idle pulley halfway. (half the belt touched half didnt) and it was because the washer for the idle pulley was on the wrong side so it was misaligned,(when i took t off doing plenum) but looked completly straight when looking at it.
Hope that helps.
actually to tell you the truth i had this happen once.
my belt was sliding off the idle pulley halfway. (half the belt touched half didnt) and it was because the washer for the idle pulley was on the wrong side so it was misaligned,(when i took t off doing plenum) but looked completly straight when looking at it.
Hope that helps.
my belt was sliding off the idle pulley halfway. (half the belt touched half didnt) and it was because the washer for the idle pulley was on the wrong side so it was misaligned,(when i took t off doing plenum) but looked completly straight when looking at it.
Hope that helps.
im hoping this belt will stay on, but i still need to figure out the squeak
Might be worth the while to try a shorter belt to take the AC pulley out of the system, if the squeak stops you've found the culprit.
My AC went bad a couple years ago, unfortunately the whole unit has got to be replaced if AC is important to you, the pulley itself is not a serviceable part.
It squeaked something awful for days until it got so bad I knew something was ready to go, I popped the hood and saw the wobble on the AC before it flew apart.
Used a shorter belt to bypass the AC unit, problem solved ,,, Of course, without AC now.
They do make a dummy AC pulley setup that you can bolt in in place of the AC unit, but it cost twice as much as a belt, accomplishes the same purpose, and in both cases you'll have no AC. The only reason you'd want to go that route is if you want to keep the original belt ,,, But, as I said, you'd end up spending twice the $$ to achieve the same result.
The belt I got that was supposed to be for my model year without AC was too tight, so I got one about an inch longer and that did the trick.
Of course, it could be something else, but the AC is the most failure prone accessory in the pulley system from what I have seen.
If anything is even slightly out of balance, torque or alignment, the whole pulley system will not function as intended and, given the constant, non stop RPM's, its easy to imagine why the belt is thrown due to a flaw that cannot be detected by eyeballing it.
Outside of perhaps the tires, that belt arguably has the highest stressed job of any single part of a vehicle, and by necessity there can be no margin for errors in its operation.
Either every component of the pulley system is 100% up to specs or they aren't, and when a belt is thrown like that its really a warning that something far worse is going to happen if it don't get fixed.
ALT would be my second guess, of course no bypassing that.
Might be worth the while to make sure its putting out a steady 14v running, sometimes they have erratic output before they die, or if they aren't getting the proper belt rotation.
If its anything else but a constant 14v, that might be your problem.
My AC went bad a couple years ago, unfortunately the whole unit has got to be replaced if AC is important to you, the pulley itself is not a serviceable part.
It squeaked something awful for days until it got so bad I knew something was ready to go, I popped the hood and saw the wobble on the AC before it flew apart.
Used a shorter belt to bypass the AC unit, problem solved ,,, Of course, without AC now.
They do make a dummy AC pulley setup that you can bolt in in place of the AC unit, but it cost twice as much as a belt, accomplishes the same purpose, and in both cases you'll have no AC. The only reason you'd want to go that route is if you want to keep the original belt ,,, But, as I said, you'd end up spending twice the $$ to achieve the same result.
The belt I got that was supposed to be for my model year without AC was too tight, so I got one about an inch longer and that did the trick.
Of course, it could be something else, but the AC is the most failure prone accessory in the pulley system from what I have seen.
If anything is even slightly out of balance, torque or alignment, the whole pulley system will not function as intended and, given the constant, non stop RPM's, its easy to imagine why the belt is thrown due to a flaw that cannot be detected by eyeballing it.
Outside of perhaps the tires, that belt arguably has the highest stressed job of any single part of a vehicle, and by necessity there can be no margin for errors in its operation.
Either every component of the pulley system is 100% up to specs or they aren't, and when a belt is thrown like that its really a warning that something far worse is going to happen if it don't get fixed.
ALT would be my second guess, of course no bypassing that.
Might be worth the while to make sure its putting out a steady 14v running, sometimes they have erratic output before they die, or if they aren't getting the proper belt rotation.
If its anything else but a constant 14v, that might be your problem.
Last edited by xray99; Feb 4, 2010 at 09:50 PM.



