Dumb question for anyone that has installed u joints.
#11
Not to do what?
Yeah I thought after taking the axle out and all this was going to be a easy job. Everything went smooth until I had to get the old joint out. What a major pita that was. Then I can't get this one together either. I never thought a u joint could be so stubborn. It should be like a 15 minute job.
Yeah I thought after taking the axle out and all this was going to be a easy job. Everything went smooth until I had to get the old joint out. What a major pita that was. Then I can't get this one together either. I never thought a u joint could be so stubborn. It should be like a 15 minute job.
#12
I dont know about this one i did mine a while back. My front one where the shaft meets the tranny yoke was so loose i could grab it and wiggle it side to side so mine came out easy. I pulled my whole drive shaft out and laid it down on the driveway next to my truck and had my dad hold it while i got the new one with caps in and it went smooth, for my 1st time doing them on my 97 lol hope u get it fixed
#14
use a file or sandpaper or similar to remove any scarring that sticks out into the yoke hole and reduces its size. on my d-shaft u-joints i had a similar problem and used a dremel tool with a sandpaper drum. just be very careful not to overdo it and make the yoke too big. it needs to remain as a fairly snug/press fit. but it doesn't have to be so tight that it takes a 12lb sledge to beat it in.
tip. put a generous amount of wheel bearing grease inside the cup to hold the needle bearings in place.
tip. put a generous amount of wheel bearing grease inside the cup to hold the needle bearings in place.
#15
use a file or sandpaper or similar to remove any scarring that sticks out into the yoke hole and reduces its size. on my d-shaft u-joints i had a similar problem and used a dremel tool with a sandpaper drum. just be very careful not to overdo it and make the yoke too big. it needs to remain as a fairly snug/press fit. but it doesn't have to be so tight that it takes a 12lb sledge to beat it in.
tip. put a generous amount of wheel bearing grease inside the cup to hold the needle bearings in place.
tip. put a generous amount of wheel bearing grease inside the cup to hold the needle bearings in place.
Then take a ball pien hammer and give the yoke a couple/three sharp hits about an inch away from the cup to loosen things up. On each side of course.
You were lucky the cap didn't explode from the needle bearing beeing stuck on the top of it. I hope you bought a new joint...I wouldn't trust it after the pounding it took.
Lastly, if things seem tight with the new joint ( it should rotate freely in the yoke), rap the yoke ears once, again away from the joint, and that should free things up.
Last edited by dsertdog56; 02-05-2010 at 10:44 AM.
#18
congrats.
exact same thing happened to me.
i ****ed up one of my d-shaft u-joints the same way, even with an *** load of grease in the cup. because the fit was so tight, and i had to start bashing it with a hammer even before the cup settled over the cross... a couple of needles fell down into the bottom. so just like on yours, i bashed it on down in there just to discover it wouldn't drop all the way in.
had to start all over, sand out the scar, then take off another couple of thousands so the cup would start w/o hammering. i almost took out too much and had to look for a can of instant rust...
exact same thing happened to me.
i ****ed up one of my d-shaft u-joints the same way, even with an *** load of grease in the cup. because the fit was so tight, and i had to start bashing it with a hammer even before the cup settled over the cross... a couple of needles fell down into the bottom. so just like on yours, i bashed it on down in there just to discover it wouldn't drop all the way in.
had to start all over, sand out the scar, then take off another couple of thousands so the cup would start w/o hammering. i almost took out too much and had to look for a can of instant rust...