Temp goes to 195 then drops to like 160??
The wire is in the harness that plugs into the sensor if I am correct.
HMMMMMMMM could this work the other way if the sensor is telling the engine that it's temp is cooler than it really is could this cause it to over heat? i.e. temp sensor says engine is 180 when it is really 200 and the engine will keep trying to warm it up and cause it to overheat?
HMMMMMMMM could this work the other way if the sensor is telling the engine that it's temp is cooler than it really is could this cause it to over heat? i.e. temp sensor says engine is 180 when it is really 200 and the engine will keep trying to warm it up and cause it to overheat?
The Temp. Sensor sends information to the computer so it can adjust the fuel output for fuel economy purposes as well as optimal operating conditions... yes if its sending a signal saying I'm cold the computer will add more fuel but that will only hurt your fuel economy... again because the thermostat acts independently from the computer!
Hope that answers your question! As to the question about the low temp condition... I used to be a Store Manager for NAPA and if I remember correctly the thermostats we sold had on temperature for which each individual thermostat was rated... is nothing is wrong with your wiring to the sensor i know this may sound like I'm talking down my nose but I promise I'm not (not everybody has the time or the patience to look for markings like that but if you're trying to be the best you can be behind a parts counter you wind up noticing quite a few things others skip over, plus, I'm guilty of this myself, all to often we trust the guy behind that counter and we shouldn't haha!
I agree with what's been said by every one else... the cooling system on these trucks arent all that complicated you've got your hoses, radiator, fan, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, sensor and the wiring to the sensor... and really there's only 3 things that I've ever heard of causing a cold running temperature and that is either the thermostat, temperature sensor(s), or the wiring to the sensor(s)!
Hope this is helpful and doesn't feel preachy! Cause Helping not Preaching is my intention!
Broken: Not preachy at all someone will do a search on here and your answer will probably save them a lot of time. I was 99% sure that the ECT temp sensor was not causing my engine to overheat that it was the T-stat but since the topic was started figured I would throw that out there. Because I have a digital gauge and it is showing 225 and the factory gauge barely is going over the first little mark on the factory temp gauge, but trust me you can tell it is overheating by the heat and smell the digital gauge is awsome to have. Overheating has got to be one of the hardest problems to figure out because it is a simple system but there are a TON of variables. Hope the OP got something out of this as well.
Broken: Not preachy at all someone will do a search on here and your answer will probably save them a lot of time. I was 99% sure that the ECT temp sensor was not causing my engine to overheat that it was the T-stat but since the topic was started figured I would throw that out there. Because I have a digital gauge and it is showing 225 and the factory gauge barely is going over the first little mark on the factory temp gauge, but trust me you can tell it is overheating by the heat and smell the digital gauge is awsome to have. Overheating has got to be one of the hardest problems to figure out because it is a simple system but there are a TON of variables. Hope the OP got something out of this as well.
Heck I've even heard of the rotor (or whatever you want to call it) on the inside of the water pump coming off due to a poor rebuild... I recommend a brand new one from NAPA they come with lifetime warranties... and unlike some other brands it's a true lifetime warranty not a 2 week warranty because you're not changing the NAPA pump again every 2 weeks several times before you finally get a good one
Check the weep hole on your water pump if you see a greenish residue around it change the pump before it goes completely out on you don't wait and chance it... you'll regret it if you do! Another tid bit make sure you are getting the correct pump for your magnum engine! Magnum Engine Pumps Spin REVERSE of the Pre-Magnum Pumps Make Sure The Fins On The New Pump ARE THE SAME AS YOUR ORIGINAL! The Magnum Engine water pump comes in 2 varieties a Bolt-On Pulley Or A Pressed-On! Either Style will fit a 3.9L V-6, 5.2L V-8, And 5.9L V-8... I recommend If you have the bolt-on pulley style pump stay with it unless the pulley is damaged... reason being they are easier to work with when taking off the fan clutch!
I've got around 113K on my 00' 1500 3.9L I have Flushed the system using prestone radiator flush twice now. Once because it had never been done and then the second time because I needed to replace the water pump and I wanted to not have to worry about it! I have only replaced the water pump once due to seeing anti-freeze residue trails around the weep hole I also replaced at the same time my upper and lower radiator hoses the short bypass hose that gose up to the intake manifold right next to the thermostat housing as well as the thermostat due to seeing a small pool of antifreeze in that area... I changed those things more as a piece of mind to protect the new water pump more than anything else... however I did have to replace my belt tensioner because when I placed a socket on the pulley bolt and released the tension on the belt the tensioner did not spring back into place whatsoever!
Aayways back to the original thread if its running cool its gonna burn more fuel because it thinks you're in cold weather and its trying to get up to normal operating temp! I know that it's a pain to get to but I'd be suspicious of the thermostat either sticking never fully closing, or being the wrong one because they do make 160 deg. thermostats for these magnum engines! If that's working properly though then I'd fall back to either the temp sensor or the pigtail to the temp sensor! Make sure that the ground wire has good ground and that with the key on you are reading 5 Volts at the positive wire in the pig tail!
The Factory Service Manual for your truck lists 5 possible reasons for a temperature guage reading low and here they are:
1) Has A Diagnostic Trouble Code Been Set Indicating A Stuck Open Thermostat?
Take it somewhere that will check the codes for free like autozone or someplace like that!
2) Is The Temperature Sending Unit Connected?
Check temperature sensor connector. Repair connector if necessary.
3) Is The Temperature Guage Operating Ok?
Check guage operation. Repair as necessary.
4) Coolant Level Low In Cool Ambeint Temperatures Accompanied With Poor Heater Performance.
Check coolant level in the coolant reserve/overflow tank and the radiator. Inspect system for leaks. Repair leaks as necessary. Refer to the Coolant section of the manual text for WARNINGS and CAUTIONS associated with removing the radiator cap.
5) Improper Operation Of Internal Heater Doors Or Heater Controls.
Inspect heater and repair as necessary.
There is a copy available of this manual here on the forum! The link is:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...tmas-guys.html
Last edited by brokenroads37502; Feb 11, 2010 at 09:26 PM.
hmmmm I know it is not the issue because the entire cooling system on my truck is new (hoses, water pump, radiator, t-stat, heck the engine is even brand new) but I used all brand new prestone 50/50 mix but I "think" i may have had some extended life left over and mixed a little in. I don't think it would have turned into a gummy substance yet because the truck only has about 100 miles on it I will check if I did I will get it flushed once I get the T-Stat in.
When the engine was hot the top hose was hard as a rock I know that!!!
When the engine was hot the top hose was hard as a rock I know that!!!
Last edited by quackaddict; Feb 11, 2010 at 09:25 PM.
hmmmm I know it is not the issue because the entire cooling system on my truck is new (hoses, water pump, radiator, t-stat, heck the engine is even brand new) but I used all brand new prestone 50/50 mix but I "think" i may have had some extended life left over and mixed a little in. I don't think it would have turned into a gummy substance yet because the truck only has about 100 miles on it I will check if I did I will get it flushed once I get the T-Stat in.
When the engine was hot the top hose was hard as a rock I know that!!!
When the engine was hot the top hose was hard as a rock I know that!!!
hmm.. my top hose and the bottom hose get hard as a rock when the truck is running. and i know it gets to temp because it goes up to the 195 mark then you see it drop down to what it is in this picture

is that 160ish?
oh, i've been getting crap mileage for a little while now too, with the old thermostat and the new. bad temp sensor maybe?

is that 160ish?
oh, i've been getting crap mileage for a little while now too, with the old thermostat and the new. bad temp sensor maybe?
Friend I'm not the Expert on the subject but my trucks needle has always since it was new been approximately the same position as what yours is showing in that picture I believe if I'm not mistaken that the 160ish mark is the one right next to the 130 mark. I could be wrong about that but I do know mine has always been about the same as what yours is showing!
Anyone else have a different reading on their guage when your trucks running normal?
Anyone else have a different reading on their guage when your trucks running normal?
what brand radiator did you go with.. mine has a hard time heating up.. as in i have never had a truck that i could get it hot in their. not like my car... on the other hand it does get comfy but thats about it..... i also have a newer rad in mine from a 2001. and have factory tow package...
Whichever one they keep in stock at advance. I think it was something like 130$.
Mine doesn't have a bit of trouble heating up. on a cold day, letting it warm up for about 30 seconds to a minute before I go, it'll be blowing warm air in 3 miles and hot air in 5 (at operating temp).
Mine doesn't have a bit of trouble heating up. on a cold day, letting it warm up for about 30 seconds to a minute before I go, it'll be blowing warm air in 3 miles and hot air in 5 (at operating temp).



