I have a wiring diagram for that - not a full schematic but, there is two parts to the CKT as I thought and, one is the controller itself and then we have a warning lamp driver - both are separate CKTs.

I noted a MELTED wire mentioned. It must be a power (+) POS wire correct? RED perhaps with LIGHT GREEN?

Here's my quick interpretation of how the system is wired:

-starting at the PDC, FUSE 3, 40A CKT A1 12AWG RD feeds into the ignition switch (SW1).

-From (SW1), <OFF> CKT A21 12DB (12AWG DARK BLUE) feeds into FUSE 12, 15A

-From FUSE 12, F14, 18AWG LG/YL to SPLICE S209 which drops a wire size to 20AWG of the same color code.

This wire feeds both the 4WD and ABS lamp. This is where those receive power from only - it's a non-switched, hard wired supply line to those.

Now, those OUTS of both lamps change wire color to LG/RD.

The ABS PWR feed has two options:

OPTION A: WITH RWAL and

OPTION B: w/o RWAL

IN OPTION A: the wire (G19, 22LG/RD) connects to the WARNING LAMP DRIVER at the ANTI-LOCK BRAKE CONTROLLER

IN OPTION B: it splices up a wire size to 20AWG, LG/RD to the ABS ANTI LOCK BRAKE CONTROLLER / WARNING LAMP DRIVER CKT LG/RD TO

There's also SPLICE S158, 20 AWG, LG/RD that feeds the ABS WARNING LAMP RELAY

That's all I can do for now. If you melted a wire, assume that something in that CKT is damaged for, when there's melted insulation, it was either a partial or dead short to ground or, something was drawing excessive current through that CKT / WIRE that caused it to over heat and melt. Either way, short or high current, doesn't matter, something got damaged and, it may be as simple as your ABS relay.

The only thing I am not certain on is the PIN OUT of the relay along with the OHM specs of the ABS relay.

CHECK the Part No (P/N) on the relay and note if it's the SAME as the ASD relay.

IF- if it's the same P/N, then you can simply use the same test method to test it as the ASD relay.

IF- if it's not the same P/N, then, we would need to obtain the specs and PIN OUT before testing so that we don't F-something up.

CM

 

Most deff sounds like a cat problem, iv heard of them clogging and when the blockage broke loose it did a sudden backfire.

 

well i just checked the CAT. Seems ok. I took out the 02 sensor and there was no pressure that came out. 02 sensor did have some crap on the bung. i banged the cat, and theres no rattle. i shined a light through the 02 sensor hole to try to look in, and it doesnt seem like the air flow is being blocked off. but like i said im going to replace it anyways.

I also drove it a little this morning, and at first start up, oil psi went up to the line before 110 again. (15* out) and the truck fired up without hesitation. after letting it warm up, oil psi dropped to 45, and when i give it gas, the needle is past the 0 on the 40 for psi, so i assume this to be about 65-70 PSI. i dont know if i should be complaining lol. but i drive my daughter in the truck, and i dont want something to happen while shes in it with me, which is why im trying to get this straightened out. I mean that kind of oil psi isnt bad is it? the more the better right?

 

My CAT went out after 100+K and, it was not rattling nor was there evidence- just like in your case. In my case, it was not backfiring but, I had experienced low power from time to time to really bad bog down.

I put a new one on- problem solved immediately.

NEXT:

In regards to your oil pressure:

More is generally better however, in this case- something is wrong, either with the filter (possibly collapsing on itself) and it is bypassing it or, the crankcase is being pressurized or, to a faulty oil sending unit or, the oil is too thick at cold startup.

An older guy I know used to run 20/85 and at startup- he was at 90 psi. IN my opinion, this is too high and, with pressure that high, there's a greater chance of leaks.

Start with a new filter first to rule that out. RETEST.

IF still persists: change oil sending unit

Now, if I remember correctly, this JUST started right after that backfire correct? Or, has this been an issue before?

 

when i changed the plenum the first time the pressure was 50 idle and 60-65 running. This is when i had Mobil 1 full syn 10w30, quart of lucus, and Mobil 1 filter.

Then i changed oils to Quaker full syn horsepower 10w30 with a Mopar filter. oil psi was at 45 consistantly the entire duration of the oil change interval (3700 miles) Oil was still light brown when i changed it.

Then i just changed it 2 weeks ago, and i used Quaker full syn horsepower 10w30, Mopar filter, but i used Restore: Engine Treatment. which is currently in the oil now. the oil psi was at 45 again consistantly, untill the backfire. ive gone about 700 miles since ive changed it.

Do you think it could be the Restore: Engine treatment taking affect to the motor?

and i just got done a 3 hour ride, and the PSI was at 70 running, 55 idle like i said before. well when i shut the truck off in the trail to smoke a butt, and then restarted it, oil psi was 40 idle, and moved to about 50 running. so its back to normal again.....this is wird

 

We will talk about the use of engine treatments and their affects offline. I will PM you later this evening with some information and some factual information of what I found after observing engine parts (removed parts) after the fact (engine treatment)

I don't want to redirect this thread.
CM

 

lol now you got me worried.