Yes, I did SEARCH.
I read through several threads about cruise control.
I did several diagnostic and trouble shooting procedures.

I am now coming to ya'll for further input/opinions.

Alrighty, then.


My cruise control stopped working after I went off roading last week.
The 4x4 light was on, so I knew the stupid CAD vacuum line was knocked off again. I pulled over at a rest stop and hooked it back up and the light went off. However, my cruise control will still not engage.
I disconnected the vacuum line at the cruise servo and put a vacuum gauge on it. It pulled 15 inches of mercury. The test procedure I got from Alldata stated at least ten.
I also removed the switch module. Completely disassembled it and cleaned everything.
I tested the resistance of the switches and they are all at spec (On/OFF 909Ohms; Resume/Accel 15,400Ohms; Set/coast 6650Ohms).
I disconnected the cruise servo to do an electrical test on it, but the indicator light would just flash once when I tried to turn on the system with the servo disconnected.
The throttle cables are all securely connected.

I'm not sure how to properly diagnose the brake switch. The lights are off with no pedal pressure, and on with pedal pressure.

Did I miss a vacuum line?
Is it possible the brake switch is out of adjustment?
Is the cruise servo bad?

 

Did you check the e-brake? Brake fluid level? I don't know if those matter on these trucks but they do on my fords

 

Parking brake light isn't on. And the brake fluid is nearly full.
Not sure what else to check on the parking brake...?

 

Would the rear wheel ABS sensor affect it?

It shows up on the second diagram of the cruise control:

 

brake light switch, (sounds ok)
clutch switch,
speed sensor in rear of trans,
speed sensor on top of rear diff ?
speedo working ?
TPS.
vac sounds ok
any limb, mud, or water damage under the battery ?

any CEL codes ?

 

@dhvaughan
I just tested the brake switch (see below)
auto tranny
Speedometer is working normally
No debris in engine compartment. I didn't see any damage to the servo, either.
The TPS might need replacing because I idle at 900-1000RPM even after closed loop startup. EDIT: might be IAC, too. Forgot about that...


I just ran through this procedure:

I had continuity on pins 5 & 6, but not 1 & 2 or 3 & 4.
My mom verified this (she does electrical engineering)
Am I right in concluding the stop lamp switch needs replacing and is the culprit?
The CEL hasn't come on, which also puzzles me. The CEL came on when the brake switch in my dad's 03 Sebring went out.

I think I'm going to replace the brake switch and then go from there.

Thanks for your input

 

switch needs replacing. nice test chart. i didn't know it had that many wires.

the cruise on my son's honda quit awhile back. i worked on it and checked brake light, vac, etc, and finally gave up and took it to a shop. turned out to be clutch switch. hell, i didn't even know it had a clutch switch. cost me a bundle to learn that.

 

MIne quit working 5 years ago. But then I figured out I could hit the "cruise on" button and the "deaccelerate" button(both outside buttons) at the same time and it will work.
Don't know why, but it works. Give it a try.

 

Brake switch didn't fix it.
This is really frustrating.
I might have to have the shop work on it next week when I take my truck in for ball joints and fuel pump.
I need this fixed before my 4000 mile road trip on the 10th....

 

dang it. i thought you had it whipped.
don't give up yet - does the new brake switch pass the test ?
(on or off the vehicle)

if it passes, can you trace those wires back to wherever they go.