Thanks Laramie, I appreciate the help.

So I can bypass the amps on both front speakers? Same with the rear speakers? Are there amps for the rear speakers at all? What was the point of the amps in the first place then?

My plan at the moment is to buy a couple of decent 6x9 3way speakers (infinity maybe?) for the front, and worry about the rear later. Unless someone can convince me otherwise.

 

What do you think about this?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=8704217

I'll get a pair of these for the front speakers and bypass the stock amps. Will this work?

 

The point of the amps was to up the power to the upgraded speakers. That's pretty much it.

All four speakers have their own amp.

Since you're putting in a new deck, I would just recommend that you put in all new wiring and call it good.

Those type S speakers are good ones, and I was actually going to suggest them, but wasn't seeing them on CF. I believe there is another member here that I told to get them, and they have been happy with the speakers.

 

I only had two factory amps, one with each front speaker. Wires from those amps, IIRC, went to the tweeters and rear speakers.

As far as Best Buy goes, yup. You will usually get one extreme or the other, a guy who knows what he's talking about, or an idiot who will fill you full of B.S. By the way, they don't work on commission at Best Buy, so don't think thats their motivation.

 

Either way, you'll be better off running new wire considering the age of the copper and guage size.

 

So I will be perfectly fine just bypassing the amps right? So my system will basically have no amp at all? Or does the head unit have one built in? (Sorry for repeating the same questions over and over, I want to be sure )

Laramie, what do you mean by "all new wiring"? Can't I just cut the amps out and replace them with a chunk of the same size wire? (I know this probably isn't the prefered way, I just want it to work)

Yeah the guy at Best Buy last night actually said to me "I really don't know anything about this stuff, I just work here." Very helpful....at least he didn't try to feed me a line of crap.

Thanks again guys, you're saving me a lot of frustration...I think.

 

Ok, the Head unit that you picked out has an internal amp rated at 50W max x4, with an RMS of 22x4. RMS is a measure of constant wattage at all times. This is usually the watt rating you need to look at when looking at components.

When I say replace all the wiring, I mean just that.

While you can go through and wire around the amps, you're going to have a hard time differentiating between what two wires you need, and by the time you do all that, you could have ran new audio wire from the back of the deck through the cab. It's not hard either. Rear speaker wire can go through the kick plate and the the fronts will go through the door and behind the dash.

 

I think I'm gonna need to pull the door panels off so I can see what you're talking about. I was just thinking it was 2 wires into the amp, 2 wires out and then connected to the speakers. But it's never that easy.

Do you think my head unit is has enough RMS to make decent sound out of those alpine speakers?

 

honnestly if ur looking for cheap speakers into ur truck i have kicker 6.5's in the back and i got them for like 50bucks and then i got lightning audio 6x9's in the doors and they are perfect. my headunit is also alpine but i got that out of my step dads wrecked grand prix lol. But i paid like 40 dollars for the lightning audio 225watt 6x9's at walmart and got the kickers at an audio place and they sound awesome in the truck and the 6.5's did bolt right up same with the 6x9's. but again ive always kept with lightning audio/rockford fosgate and kicker so i wouldnt know about anything else

 

It looks like that deck will match the speakers quite well, but just realize that the upper levels may wash out when you try to crank them. That's why I suggested you get into an amp.