Still having brake problems, could it be the booster?
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Pueblo Colorado
Still having brake problems, could it be the booster?
Well changed out the MC, bled the brakes...nothing changed.
When we pump the brakes the brake booster swells up about a 1/4 of an inch. Looks like a pumping heart. Are they known to get weak and do that?
The line that connects to the large resivor in the MC has a lot less pressure than the one with the small resivor. When you pump the brakes theres a loud slushy noise in the big resivor, but when you bleed there's no air just fluid that comes out. Tried soapy water on all the fittings and couldn't see any air coming in or out.
Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks
When we pump the brakes the brake booster swells up about a 1/4 of an inch. Looks like a pumping heart. Are they known to get weak and do that?
The line that connects to the large resivor in the MC has a lot less pressure than the one with the small resivor. When you pump the brakes theres a loud slushy noise in the big resivor, but when you bleed there's no air just fluid that comes out. Tried soapy water on all the fittings and couldn't see any air coming in or out.
Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks
Veteran
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 389
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From: Fairfax VA
No, not likely. Just like it wasn't likely that the MC was the cause. A bad booster makes the pedal hard. You can disconnect the booster and see what it feels like with a bad booster. It still sounded like your issue is with your rear brakes.
I hope you are not using boost to bleed the brakes. That is not the correct procedure. Without boost your pedal should be hard as a rock. With boost you will still be able to force the pedal to the floor. That is probably what is causing your booster to bulge because the piston can only go in so far into the master cylinder and the pressure has to go somewhere. When your rear brakes are adjusted and working properly you won't have to apply as much force to get the pedal to the floor to get full brake lock up.
My brakes were a mess when I got my truck. I have since replaced shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, rotors, calipers pads, and Master cylinder. I have also worked on brakes on several other vehicles over the years. The dodge truck brakes were the most funky by far. After replacing all the parts, my pedal felt soft when it had boost. I could force the pedal all the way to the floor, but was solid without boost. I was convinced that there was something wrong. After running through several gallons of fluid, swapping several parts, I came to the realization that even though I could force the pedal to the floor that it wouldn’t happen in normal driving and when the rear brakes were properly installed and adjusted (very important) that the pedal would feel firm and I could lock up all 4 if needed.
I hope you are not using boost to bleed the brakes. That is not the correct procedure. Without boost your pedal should be hard as a rock. With boost you will still be able to force the pedal to the floor. That is probably what is causing your booster to bulge because the piston can only go in so far into the master cylinder and the pressure has to go somewhere. When your rear brakes are adjusted and working properly you won't have to apply as much force to get the pedal to the floor to get full brake lock up.
My brakes were a mess when I got my truck. I have since replaced shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, rotors, calipers pads, and Master cylinder. I have also worked on brakes on several other vehicles over the years. The dodge truck brakes were the most funky by far. After replacing all the parts, my pedal felt soft when it had boost. I could force the pedal all the way to the floor, but was solid without boost. I was convinced that there was something wrong. After running through several gallons of fluid, swapping several parts, I came to the realization that even though I could force the pedal to the floor that it wouldn’t happen in normal driving and when the rear brakes were properly installed and adjusted (very important) that the pedal would feel firm and I could lock up all 4 if needed.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Pueblo Colorado
We aren't useing the booster to bleed. I'm going to let my husband read what you wrote. My dad is a dodge guy, and he is out of ideas also. I guess its just picking something and going down the list until something works. Thanks Sungod
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2010
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just throwing this out there for ****s and giggles
From the Haynes manual- Combination valve and RWAL valve(next to master cylinder) All models without ABS have a combination valve ,A pressure differential switch inside the combination valve is connected to the brake warning lighton the dash. This switch monitors fluid pressure in the front and the rear hydraulic brake circuits. A decrease or loss of fluid pressure in either circuit will cause the switch valve to move forward or backward in response to change in pressure. When the valve moves, it pushes the switch plunger up,which closes the electrical circuit to the warning light The switch valve will remain in this position until the hydraulic system is repaired. Well at least i got some more typing practice in , lmao
From the Haynes manual- Combination valve and RWAL valve(next to master cylinder) All models without ABS have a combination valve ,A pressure differential switch inside the combination valve is connected to the brake warning lighton the dash. This switch monitors fluid pressure in the front and the rear hydraulic brake circuits. A decrease or loss of fluid pressure in either circuit will cause the switch valve to move forward or backward in response to change in pressure. When the valve moves, it pushes the switch plunger up,which closes the electrical circuit to the warning light The switch valve will remain in this position until the hydraulic system is repaired. Well at least i got some more typing practice in , lmao
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2010
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Actually check the metering valve , TO check it have someone watch the black button on the front and someone push the brake pedal to see if it moves in and out slightly , if it doesnt move or protrude in and out slighlty it says to replace^ thats next to the master cylinder i think, whoops my bad^ you got a Haynes manual?
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Pueblo Colorado
I don't have a Haynes manual that I know of. So if that black button moves then its ok?
We were checking tires, and my husband found out or he's pretty sure that the bearings on the right front side have gone out or are going out. When the tire is off the ground, you can move it back and forth. Can you just change the bearings or does it have to be the whole hub? Checkers says you have to buy the whole hub and its like almost $200 which I don't have right now. My dad is a macanic and he said on fords ( i think it was the fords) you can just change the bearings, but he wasn't sure if thats how it was on the dodges too.
We were checking tires, and my husband found out or he's pretty sure that the bearings on the right front side have gone out or are going out. When the tire is off the ground, you can move it back and forth. Can you just change the bearings or does it have to be the whole hub? Checkers says you have to buy the whole hub and its like almost $200 which I don't have right now. My dad is a macanic and he said on fords ( i think it was the fords) you can just change the bearings, but he wasn't sure if thats how it was on the dodges too.
