what radio/speakers should I get for my 99-01 1500 ram?
#12
#14
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
you don't need a special dash tool, just use a plastic putty knife.
#15
#16
yeah you can get the wiring harness at walmart for $8 and the new dash kit for $12. the brand is schose for both items. i actually did this 2 weeks ago. really simple. however, the original wiring harness from the truck is male ends and the new schose harness is female ends. the ends of the new harness need to be matched up to the harness that came with your radio. i put in a kenwood unit and ordered an ipod adapter from sonic electronix. the adapter plugs into the back of the unit. therefore you can play your ipod and control it through your unit. just an idea if you have an ipod you wanna use. however, i have infinity speakers and was unaware of that at the time so i returned my Pioneer speakers. turns out the infinity speaker is wired all crazy. anyway, the speakers sound better with new unit so i returned the speakers and got my $75 back
#17
I reccomend you go with a Pioneer headunit, there great the first one the truck had was put in back in 96 and finally went out last year, cds took awhile to start playin.
And the pioneer I have in my truck now has the USB port so you can plug your ipod right into the front of it and control the ipod through the head unit makes it so easy.
And the pioneer I have in my truck now has the USB port so you can plug your ipod right into the front of it and control the ipod through the head unit makes it so easy.
#18
I'm very picky about sound quality. Well, used to be. I've learned to live with lower quality stuff but I still appreciate a nice sound. To me some of the best speakers in the under $200 range are the Polks. I've used both the DB's and Momo's and liked them both. Another great choice is Infinity. Alpine also has a few decent offerings although I prefer the Polks and Infinitys. To me Sony's just sound like complete crap. I've also used Pioneers and while some like them I wasn't impressed. I like Pioneer stuff too I just didn't like those speakers I tried. They were cheaper ones though.
For a head unit I'd look into an Alpine or Eclipse with the features you want. I'd make sure the h/u has 3 sets of pre outs in case you ever want to upgrade and add a 4 channel amp in addition to a sub amp later on down the road.
You can get nicer stuff but not on the budget you are on.
Are you going to add subs or just a head unit and speakers?
For a head unit I'd look into an Alpine or Eclipse with the features you want. I'd make sure the h/u has 3 sets of pre outs in case you ever want to upgrade and add a 4 channel amp in addition to a sub amp later on down the road.
You can get nicer stuff but not on the budget you are on.
Are you going to add subs or just a head unit and speakers?
#19
#20
Just went through a speaker replacement on my 98 ram - I had to replace a non working infinity speaker with a set of kenwood 6x9's..
The infinity speakers come with a speaker mounted AMP and crossover - the twitters are mounted in the A Pillers..
Here are the issues I ran into -
If you purchase 4 or 5 way speakers the center of the speaker extents above the upper ring of the bass speaker - so the door panel sits against the speakers center..
If you where to cut out the door panel for the new speaker grill - the original Round opening in the door panel is off center from the actual speaker itself..
Speaker depth is also an issue - so you may need spacers - depending on your new speakers... (Which may cause door panel to sit against the speaker)
The speaker mounted AMPs and Crossover can be unscrewed from the speakers and zipped tied out of the way and just connect up the new speaker to the speaker leads (If the AMP's still work and you are not running your own AMP to the speakers, that is)
There is a non removable wiring harness attached to the speaker - there is a connector for the speaker attached to the inside of the door - just follow the speaker harness up with your hand and you will find it...
The colors on the speaker wiring harness to the speakers - do not match the truck wiring harness colors - so pull the connector to see the color change over..
Like I said my AMPs where no good so I disconnected the speaker harness from the truck harness and just ran the speaker wires down to the new speakers..
My speaker harness had 6 wires in it - amp 12v +, amp 12v -, tweeter output +, tweeter output -, speaker input +, speaker input - (Note: there are also red & Black speaker output wires coming off the AMP for the speaker itself, but they where not in the actual speaker harness)
I reused the speaker harness connector itself and the two speaker input wires from the speaker harness (Brown = speaker input -) and (Blue = speaker input +) to make the actual connection to the new speakers
Get a dash installation Kit ($12) and a harness adapter kit ($9) from WalMart and I purchased new door panel clips (Autozone $5 for a box of 15 - you need 13 per door panel) they where the Black FORD style and a perfect match to the originals
Added Note: If reusing the existing AMPs and Tweeter Crossover - you will need to power the "Radio Choke Relay" using the power antenna wire from the new radio - The power choke relay is activated by the Light Green wire in the truck radio harness behind the radio
Truck Right Front Speaker Connector
Black/Red = Amp 12v +
Black/Violet = Amp 12v -
Light Blue/Black = Right Tweeter -
Light Blue/Red = Right Tweeter +
Violet = Speaker + (Blue in Speaker harness)
Dark Blue/Red = Speaker - (Brown in speaker harness)
Truck Left Front Speaker Connector
Black/Red = Amp 12v +
Black/Violet = Amp 12v -
Yellow/Black = Left Tweeter -
Yellow/Red = Left Tweeter +
Dark Green = Speaker + (Blue in Speaker harness)
Brown/Red = Speaker - (Brown in speaker harness)
The infinity speakers come with a speaker mounted AMP and crossover - the twitters are mounted in the A Pillers..
Here are the issues I ran into -
If you purchase 4 or 5 way speakers the center of the speaker extents above the upper ring of the bass speaker - so the door panel sits against the speakers center..
If you where to cut out the door panel for the new speaker grill - the original Round opening in the door panel is off center from the actual speaker itself..
Speaker depth is also an issue - so you may need spacers - depending on your new speakers... (Which may cause door panel to sit against the speaker)
The speaker mounted AMPs and Crossover can be unscrewed from the speakers and zipped tied out of the way and just connect up the new speaker to the speaker leads (If the AMP's still work and you are not running your own AMP to the speakers, that is)
There is a non removable wiring harness attached to the speaker - there is a connector for the speaker attached to the inside of the door - just follow the speaker harness up with your hand and you will find it...
The colors on the speaker wiring harness to the speakers - do not match the truck wiring harness colors - so pull the connector to see the color change over..
Like I said my AMPs where no good so I disconnected the speaker harness from the truck harness and just ran the speaker wires down to the new speakers..
My speaker harness had 6 wires in it - amp 12v +, amp 12v -, tweeter output +, tweeter output -, speaker input +, speaker input - (Note: there are also red & Black speaker output wires coming off the AMP for the speaker itself, but they where not in the actual speaker harness)
I reused the speaker harness connector itself and the two speaker input wires from the speaker harness (Brown = speaker input -) and (Blue = speaker input +) to make the actual connection to the new speakers
Get a dash installation Kit ($12) and a harness adapter kit ($9) from WalMart and I purchased new door panel clips (Autozone $5 for a box of 15 - you need 13 per door panel) they where the Black FORD style and a perfect match to the originals
Added Note: If reusing the existing AMPs and Tweeter Crossover - you will need to power the "Radio Choke Relay" using the power antenna wire from the new radio - The power choke relay is activated by the Light Green wire in the truck radio harness behind the radio
Truck Right Front Speaker Connector
Black/Red = Amp 12v +
Black/Violet = Amp 12v -
Light Blue/Black = Right Tweeter -
Light Blue/Red = Right Tweeter +
Violet = Speaker + (Blue in Speaker harness)
Dark Blue/Red = Speaker - (Brown in speaker harness)
Truck Left Front Speaker Connector
Black/Red = Amp 12v +
Black/Violet = Amp 12v -
Yellow/Black = Left Tweeter -
Yellow/Red = Left Tweeter +
Dark Green = Speaker + (Blue in Speaker harness)
Brown/Red = Speaker - (Brown in speaker harness)
Last edited by KYHI; 05-12-2010 at 07:54 AM.