I am running 33's and i was wondering if i should regear and what gears i should go with. I am going for gas mileage. And also better takeoff, if the combination is possible. i do very little off-roading and may possibly go with a 35 inch tire in the future.

 

4.10s or 4.56 should do the trick. i know a few people here on the forum have this setup and they will chime in soon on how its working out for them. Welcome to DF

 

I am in the same boat as you. My truck is like a big slug when I take off. I've got 33's with stock 3.55 gears. I'm thinking of jumping to 4.10 gears, but I think the cost is going to scare me. Of course keeping stock gears will more strain of the trans. For those of you who have regeared, who is the preferred dealer for gears, or does everyone have a biased opinion?

 

i used randys ring and pinion when i built my swamp buggy, i think he is nation wide and he was very reasonably priced when i ordered last time

 

Its going to cost about 2,000-3,00 to regear both diffs.

Let me add a little more shall I.

That includes parts and labor. Price will vary depending on what you want as far as lsd and lockers ect.

I called a gear shop around me and I was told 2500 for parts and labor if they bought every thing. ( I asked for 4.56's gears rear locker front lsd) They also said if I bring everything in it was 675 for them to install the parts that I supply.

 

ive been pricing gears because i cant stand these 3.55's. I have 32x10.50's right now but im going to upgrade to 33x12.50's. When i do so im also going to do the 4.10's and a powertrax. 4.10's should give me good power and still not overrevving on the highway, of course not needing to mash the gas to the floor all the time will help mpg's, if i can get myself to stop, lol. I have found that motive gear, or richmond gear both have sets for less than $1000. I think they were around 800 for both axles but i would have to check again, i just got rough ideas, and that was with instal kits. The posi unit adds $300+. I have friends that tell me they can get them for less though, and i have done gears before so i wont be paying for labor.

 

Mine isn't done yet, but I've got all the materials and done all the research (quotes, brands, etc.). All I have to do is schedule the appointment. Unfortunately, due to budget constraints with some unexpected expenses, I may have to postpone the actual install until the next tax refund.

I got one heck of a deal from a member here on the forums last year for a 3.92 ring and pinion set, for both axles. Slightly used, but great shape, should work just fine, otherwise I'd be going with 4.10s... those are about $250 per axle for cheap sets, and I wouldn't necessarily recommend cheap ring and pinion gears.

$75 - Used "thick" 3.92 ratio ring and pinion gear for Dana 44 axle
$75 - Used 3.92 ratio ring and pinion gear for Chrysler 9.25 axle
$210 - Yukon Master Install Kit for Dana 44 axle (including shipping from Randy's Ring & Pinion)
$100 - Moe's Master Install Kit for Chrysler 9.25 axle (free shipping from Moe's Performance)
$435 - Auburn Gear Limited Slip Differential for Chrysler 9.25 axle (free shipping from Moe's Performance)
$1000 - Maximum possible labor dollars (or so they quoted me).
-----------
$1895

If you were buying brand new gears, obviously you may get more than a little over $2000 into it. On top of that, make sure you get Timken bearings like I did. They cost a little more, but any other brand seems to have issues. Yes, you should get new bearings (hence the "Master Install Kit" rather than just "Install Kit" or "Minor Install kit") if you've put over 30,000 miles on the current units.

 

$675 for install doesn't sound too. Randy's Ring & Pinion has front 4.11 thick gear for $217 and 4.11 rear for $332. I don't plan upgrading the front carrier and I am just going to keep the factory rear LSD. Install kits aren't that expensive either. Or am I missing something. Is labor what really eats up money when it comes to gear change? Because part seem somewhat reasonable until you get into lockers and lsd.

 

You have to really know what you're doing and have the proper tools to set the backlash and what-not, otherwise you'll grenade your front and/or rear end pretty darned fast.

 

Oh I wouldn't be installing the gears. I've got a local that gives me good discounts. He originally rebuilt, or I guess refreshed, the front diff in my truck for $500. Bearings, seals, u-joints, and hub bearings and labor. But as long as I'm keeping the original carriers, I would just need new ring & pinion sets and install kits?