i'm sure there are variables but whats your opinion on using a sway control with a weight dist. hitch? i'll be towing travel trailers and i have to use the WDH, but as far as the sway control goes thats up to me, my truck does not have a sway bar..odd but it doesn't the travel trailers will range from a oh say 24' up to 35' and average give or take 6 to 8000lbs. Would a sway control be a good idea since i don't have a sway bar? if so would you use one controller or 2? Thanks for the input.

 

I wouldn't even consider putting that much trailer behind a truck without a rear sway bar. And with the sway bar installed, I'd go with a Pullrite hitch. I just cannot recommend the Pullrite enough. You want one even if you don't know it yet.

But if for some reason you'd rather fight the trailer and hope it never wins, one sufficiently rated friction-type sway control arm is all you need. If that's not enough to keep the trailer under control, you've got too much trailer. A second arm would just overheat your rear tires and stress the anti-heaven out of your rear suspension.

 

What??? My dad swears by using the anti sway bars when he pulls our camper. It's only a 21'.

Trailer anti sway bars are totally different then a truck sway bar. Not sure what you mean by overheating tires and all that

 

Anti-sway is good, don't get me wrong. But if one isn't enough, two isn't better.

FWIW, I've been dragging trailers around for more than 30 years myself. My last and longest ball-hitched travel trailer was 28'6" overall, the one I pulled for the most miles over its lifespan was a saner 22'. I've also had utility trailers ranging from 12' to 24'.

Let me 'splain: When the trailer wants to sway and your truck prevents it, the lateral force is applied to your frame, and so through the suspension to the rear wheels. The tread that's in contact with the ground is stressed, as are the sidewalls, and this causes the layers of the tire to move ever so slightly relative to one another. This friction causes heat, and enough of it causes the tires to overheat. Overheated tires tend to fail. Blown drive tires with big ball-hitched trailers behind your pickup can sometimes be very exciting.

Drive the interstates in the desert southwest after a few days of high winds and you'll see more than the usual quantity of chunks of blown tires ("gators") all over the road.

That's what I mean by "overheated tires and all that".

 

Get an Equal-i-zer hitch, they do sway control and weight distribution at the same time. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ They to tend to make noise thought the corners though.

 

The Equal-i-zer is not even in the same league as the Pullrite. It's essentially just another load leveling hitch, and the same results can be had by adding a friction-type sway control arm to any other load leveling hitch.

I'm not saying that they're not a good product, just that if someone's already got a load leveling hitch there's no point replacing it with the Equal-i-zer when the addition of a friction arm will do the same thing.

 

Thanks for the responses, i'm going to see if i can find a sway bar at the local junk yard. start with that and work my way back.

 

It's hard to tell from your pic if your truck is lifted over stock. I had to have an aftermarket swaybar that could adjust for my lift. I found OEM one at the u pull yard and it didn't fit right so I ended up returning it. My 2500 didn't have one stock either.

The beefiest aftermarket ones look to be the Roadmasters. I went with Hellwig as a compramise on price. The least expensive but also thinnest ones are the Adco's. The hellwig I bought seems to be doing what I bought it for.