http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DC...n/?prefilter=1

$354.95


Anybody know if this is as good as the Hughs F1 Airgap one?
Anybody have one?
Any thoughts/concerns about it?

 

you will lose alot of bottom end power, unless you have a ton of mod to go with it

 

I just noticed you still have to buy all the gaskets and hardware to go with it. Im sure once you add all the cost of that, it would be on par with the Hughs intake.

 

The M1 will do just fine, use this link probably run you about $450 for everything
http://stores.hi-potek.com/-strse-DA...Categories.bok

 

Those short, fat runners are going to cost you a lot of low end. What are you hoping to accomplish with the manifold change?

 

On a completely stock engine, there is a small low end loss. Get some HS 1.7 RRs, exhaust, TB and a good tune and you will more than gain that low end loss back.

There has been zero proof that the Air-Gap is better. One guy claimed to dyno both and said the power/tq was identical, even the same curves but that's it so far.

 

true that, marty when krc was still open dynoed them and saw same gains, M1 is less expensive and fuel rails fit better

 

The only dyno graphs I ever saw from KRC on an intake had to do with the Hughes modified keggers. They showed no gains from epoxy filling or re-aiming the injector bungs.

He has recommended the Air Gap to a few folks over at Bionic Dodge, especially for towing/intown driving.

I'd need to see dyno graphs from KRC showing no difference from the M1 4bbl single plane and the AirGap.

Not sure why he would have recommended the Air Gap to me when he could have sold me an M1 he already had if there were no difference.

 

Probably because the air gap is a dual plane and the M1 is single plane.

The M1 even states that the RPM range is 2000-6000. Not the best for cruising in overdrive. THe Air gap is a bit lower.

If you are going with an aggressive cam, and stall converter. i think the M1 is the way to fo. But I am not even completely sold that the gain in HP is worth $400+ that this mod comes with. I would MUCH rather put them towards HEADS.

Read this, it is about doing RT heads, 1.6 RRs, KRC RV cam, Underdrive crank pulley, and STOCK KEGGER:

http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...p?topic=9197.0
They got better TQ numbers than a hemi and only had 10 HP less.

 

M1/4BBL intended for serious race 360/408s with or without boost
Not for stock or near stock, would kill low rpm torque
Even M1/2BBL needs some serious mods to compliment it.

I have both versions still, ran the 2bbl for about 4yrs on my mild 360.
I currently have the 4bbl on my 408.
Its fully ported, matched, decked & special heat coating (release/reflect)

IIRC Marty got same results with 4bbl & F1 on a race 408 running boost.