Stock, modded stock, M1, Airgap, etc. ???? What's yalls take on that? I'd prefer avoiding the hassle of custom tune reflashing if possible since B&G might as well be on mars from where I'm at, and I NEED to retain some trace of some low RPM power for load towing, grade pulling grunt. Another concern is the state exhaust emissions sniffer test I go through every other year.

Current mods in sig plus a set of HS 1.7:1 RR sittting on the shelf waiting for me to get brave enough to void my engines warranty.

 

Honestly, i would just save your 450 and add 300 to that and get the Hughes Iron Heads for 750.

Read this article if you really want grunt (Camshaft):
http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...p?topic=9197.0
They did it on a budget and used a STOCK KEGGER. 350 RWTQ

 

Best intake for towing with a V8 is the kegger.
What gears do you have?
50tb & 1.7rr better choice

 

I was thinking. It is about 350 for the sharps, and 275 for the 50 fastman. Would you see better gains by just getting better heads, like the Iron Ram heads from hughes or clearwaters?

Heads or TB/1.7s?

Yes, I know, the BEST answer is all three!!!

 

I agree you guys have both homed in on what are probably the next best big mods for my truck, ie gears and/or heads&cam. I was hoping for some more inexpensive low lying fruit type mods before biting off something that will likely land in the $1500 plus range all done like what you all are talking about. Not that your advice is falling on deaf ears however. I'll likely have to buck up and save up some dough for the next really noticeable gains.

I do still need to get busy and port my throttle body to 50mm per the DIY.

Those 1.7's I have are indeed calling to me. Must resist temptation to install....

Now I have the 4.10's. Gears would probably what I'd choose next. To really do it right with my 36" tires I'd be wanting to upgrade to at least 4.88's to make it worth while. As I understand going above 4.56's requires a spool as well so there is that. Of course wile I'm in there might as well be adding front locker too. It all starts adding up to more than I can take right now.

Heads and cam would be so so sweet as well but that seems a bit of a pipe dream for me right now as I understand these OBD1's like to run a bit rich for the sniffer when you monkey much with flow like that. I'd have to coordinate my efforts with B&G Chrysler IMO to really feel good about going down that path and I jeust can't take my truck back east right now. I suppose there is the possibility I build toward one f there canned tunes however so I didn't need to actually go in to their shop.

Edit oh BTW stock kegger it is then.

 

If I remember correctly Mopar did not recommend towing with the performance PCM on the OBD 1 system.

 

You're right but it's all I have. It came with the truck. I do run nothing but premium in there though.

 

4.10s & 36", gears should be at the top of the list
4.56 will give you a 4.01 final with the 36" tires.
Wont be as big an mpg hit or as high a cost as going with 4.88s but should still give decent gains.

Cam your going to need springs, retainers & pushrods, if high mileage add in lifters also.
Then heads & roller rockers to top it off with a flashed pcm to get the gains & keep the sniffer test happy.
If going into the mtr most usually want to freshen everything up rather than having to go back in later.
That said 30 overbore &/or 4" stroke would be good as well for a few more ci to add to the party
Hows your compression?

 

4.01 you say? That doesn't sound too bad really. My whole thing is why have a gear set capable of 110MPH when I may never go above 80MPH? Although I don't want to be sitting at 5 grand rolling down the freeway either. Putting in gas can be painful for sure but trying to achieve high gas mileage isn't why I bought this truck.

Question is what cam? I was looking at the KRC406 cam but understand they may have closed the doors up there. Don't know if B&G would require my truck in their bay in order to tune for the KRC cams either. My assumption without talking to B&G is that it might be wisest to stick to mainstream cams such as the Mopar cams if the goal is to get a flash to work well without actually having my truck there to do it. Also isn't there some of the so called "RV" cams that can get by with stock vavetrain components?

Considering this sub 600 mile motor is probably still technically seating in it's rings I'd expect the compression to be pretty good maybe even going up some but I haven't checked. It does run pretty well ATM but I think I have some goofy intermittent thing going on that is messing with the loop parameters but not throwing a code (joy joy real work t track it). At this point I think any internal work such as cams etc would have to wait until I'm ready to crack the thing open and void my current existing warranty. That nationwide roadside service thing sounds kinda nice right now and it's a big step. Say at 10-20K miles down the road when I do decide to crack into her and void my warranty I'm cheap *** enough I'd probably be more likely to bolt on a cam and do some mild head work/change heads and skip the bore/stroke job if I felt it was going to be reasonably possible considering whatever condition the stock pistons, rings, crank etc is in at the time. I fully concur with the whole go bigger philosophy for those who can afford it, but for right now I'm telling myself to try and hold off on that stuff a while until I NEED to afford it as compared to now where I just WANT to afford it.