Idle probs on cold start
Here's a link to the video. Mine does the exact same thing 5.9L 1999 Ram 1500.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ith-video.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ith-video.html
This problem has been getting worse. Last night I hooked up the scanner and was watching some of the values and noticed the problem started exactly when the fuel control went into closed loop. I recorded the values when it was running rough but I haven't had time to really look at them. I have some free time this weekend to work on it some more. The good news is this problem happens just about everytime on a cold start before it only happened once in awhile so I'll get plenty of chances to try. Once the truck is warmed up it will not have any problems except the idle has a bit of a shake, not as bad as pulling a plug wire but it is still noticeable.
Sometimes I get so fed up I dream of a brick on the gas pedal!
Sometimes I get so fed up I dream of a brick on the gas pedal!
Just posing the question out there: have any of you that are experiencing the same problem changed the pre-cat O2 sensor and this has solved the problem? I've seen Unregisteredusers same solution posted out there before and am wondering if anyone has found it to be this simple? I know it's only about a $65 fix but it's one of the only things I haven't tried yet. Thanks all.
I haven't changed any O2 sensors yet b/c I found the AF leak up between the intake and the tstat housing. I haven't heard from anyone whether that would cause this same problem or not, but I think I might try that first, since it needs to be done anyway. Let us know if you try the O2 sensors.
As far as O2 sensors. No I haven't- they are reading OK on my scanner.
BUT- I was out in the truck setting up the scanner to record from a cold start . I had the key on for about 10 minutes with nothing on and when I went to start the battery couldn't turn over the motor. I remember a few weeks ago I left my lights on for a short while and the battery did the same thing. HMMM!!
I found this: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/Problems.htm
All - Miss, rough idle, hesitation, surge: Check the battery voltage carefully. With the engine running, the battery terminals should be at 14.2 ± 0.2V. Low voltage will cause stalling, rough idle, and/or hesitation. Batteries older than 3 years should be immediatly suspected. Many people have experienced this problem, even while the battery was still easily starting the engine. It seems that the PCM is very sensitive to low battery voltage.
All - Miss, rough idle, hesitation, surge: see ASD diagnostics - An intermittent ASD relay or associated wiring can cause stalling and hesitation because the battery charging circuit and O2 sensor heaters are controlled by the ASD relay.
I'm off to get a new battery-it's 8 years old. Then I'll check the alternator with it running. I hope it solves my problem, it makes sense becuase it has been getting progressively worse.
BUT- I was out in the truck setting up the scanner to record from a cold start . I had the key on for about 10 minutes with nothing on and when I went to start the battery couldn't turn over the motor. I remember a few weeks ago I left my lights on for a short while and the battery did the same thing. HMMM!!
I found this: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/Problems.htm
All - Miss, rough idle, hesitation, surge: Check the battery voltage carefully. With the engine running, the battery terminals should be at 14.2 ± 0.2V. Low voltage will cause stalling, rough idle, and/or hesitation. Batteries older than 3 years should be immediatly suspected. Many people have experienced this problem, even while the battery was still easily starting the engine. It seems that the PCM is very sensitive to low battery voltage.
All - Miss, rough idle, hesitation, surge: see ASD diagnostics - An intermittent ASD relay or associated wiring can cause stalling and hesitation because the battery charging circuit and O2 sensor heaters are controlled by the ASD relay.
I'm off to get a new battery-it's 8 years old. Then I'll check the alternator with it running. I hope it solves my problem, it makes sense becuase it has been getting progressively worse.

When the loop goes closed the oxygen sensor comes into the circuit and the PCM treats the engine controls as the ***** it turns to get the voltage it wants to see from the oxygen sensor. Unfortunately, an end of service life O2 sensor reads rich, so during an active failure the PCM starves the engine with a very lean condition, thus the low engine speed and stumbling. If you open the throttle to 1500-2000 RPM during the active failure, the hot exhaust gas will warm the sensor and the problem will seem to clear up (because that's how the component works, why we have a closed loop mode, and why our O2 sensors are heated). The engine will still be running too lean, but not so lean that it's starving.
Because the sensor becomes the point of regulation in closed loop, a scan tool will tell you that the sensor voltage is in-range. Of course it is: the PCM is diddling the engine to make it so.
But don't take my word for it. I'm just some random nameless faceless being on the internet that strings words together in a web forum. I could be wrong. It happens from time to time that I am.
The battery did not help the problem although I was in need of a new one. I am getting about 13.9 volts at the battery idling. In the ballpark.
I will take the unregistered user's advice and change the precat O2 sensor tommorow.
Is there an easy way to unplug it? I can only get one hand up there. What an idiotic location!
I will take the unregistered user's advice and change the precat O2 sensor tommorow.
Is there an easy way to unplug it? I can only get one hand up there. What an idiotic location!



