Possible transmission problem with car?
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
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From: San Diego
Possible transmission problem with car?
Hey fellow ram owners,
Im somewhat stupid when it comes to fixing cars and I cannot figure out what might be wrong with my 1500.
First the info...
Dodge ram 1500 1997 v8 4x4 5.9L
auto trans..
it started a couple days ago and when i started my truck in Drive [D] and pressed on the gas probly pressed to around 1500 rpms and the truck on started to roll slowly and after i say three seconds of pressing on the gas gradually picks up enough speed to get to the right speed i should be going at 1500 rpms. it happens everytime i make a complete stop, first off when i press on the brake to make a stop right as i almost come to a complete stop (0 mph's) the truck sort of lets go on the brake a couple of inches and presses tightly making somewhat of a jolting brake.. its very hard to explain
when i put the truck in reverse it is fine I will put in reverse and idle without even pressing the gas and it begins to move like normal where if i put it in drive and idle the truck rele barely moves.
once i get it rolling for example im on the freeway and going around 2000 rpms the truck seems to run fine... its only when i stop that i try to go from a stop light a press on the gas, the engine revs but the truck isnt going as fast as it should be with the amount im pressing the gas? i guess thats the best i can explain it
So my theory is: either there is a problem with the transmission and the first gear... which is why it works fine in reverse and in 2nd gear but takes off slow in first gear?
OR
my brake pads are loose and so the pads are pressing which is why it goes slow after a complete stop and thats why the truck somewhat sputs then a little shake after stoping? but then if it were the pads y doesnt it affect reverse?
I rele dunno and I'd rather have some suggestions here before I take it in and pay just to get it inspected...
One last question: if the engine light is on... which it is, does for example express tires charge to get the codes off of it? if so how much do they charge?
Thanks
/Chris
Im somewhat stupid when it comes to fixing cars and I cannot figure out what might be wrong with my 1500.
First the info...
Dodge ram 1500 1997 v8 4x4 5.9L
auto trans..
it started a couple days ago and when i started my truck in Drive [D] and pressed on the gas probly pressed to around 1500 rpms and the truck on started to roll slowly and after i say three seconds of pressing on the gas gradually picks up enough speed to get to the right speed i should be going at 1500 rpms. it happens everytime i make a complete stop, first off when i press on the brake to make a stop right as i almost come to a complete stop (0 mph's) the truck sort of lets go on the brake a couple of inches and presses tightly making somewhat of a jolting brake.. its very hard to explain
when i put the truck in reverse it is fine I will put in reverse and idle without even pressing the gas and it begins to move like normal where if i put it in drive and idle the truck rele barely moves.
once i get it rolling for example im on the freeway and going around 2000 rpms the truck seems to run fine... its only when i stop that i try to go from a stop light a press on the gas, the engine revs but the truck isnt going as fast as it should be with the amount im pressing the gas? i guess thats the best i can explain it
So my theory is: either there is a problem with the transmission and the first gear... which is why it works fine in reverse and in 2nd gear but takes off slow in first gear?
OR
my brake pads are loose and so the pads are pressing which is why it goes slow after a complete stop and thats why the truck somewhat sputs then a little shake after stoping? but then if it were the pads y doesnt it affect reverse?
I rele dunno and I'd rather have some suggestions here before I take it in and pay just to get it inspected...
One last question: if the engine light is on... which it is, does for example express tires charge to get the codes off of it? if so how much do they charge?
Thanks
/Chris
Banned Goober Smoocher
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8,916
Likes: 1
Your trans may be slipping on Drive. Not cheap. But it also may be something else in the drivetrain thats doing it.
As for the CEL, its one of your O2 sensors. Its either dead or dying.
Then again you live in Cali, so you have 4 if its a Cali only Ram.
As for the CEL, its one of your O2 sensors. Its either dead or dying.
Then again you live in Cali, so you have 4 if its a Cali only Ram.
Banned Goober Smoocher
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8,916
Likes: 1
Well, hell, I can't give an exact number, but from what I've heard. (mine doesn't need it, hehe) somewhere around 2-4000 depending on the shop. If its slipping in drive, it will usally need to be redone.
But don't take me for it, what for someone that knows more on the subject. lol
BTW, is your engine using any oil? Smoke? Pinging?
When did you last replace your O2 sensors?
But don't take me for it, what for someone that knows more on the subject. lol
BTW, is your engine using any oil? Smoke? Pinging?
When did you last replace your O2 sensors?
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
its not leaking oil or smoking... there is a ticking that i need to fix which is the exhaust manifold.. i have the replacement i just need to install it but hmm
i replaced 2 of the o2 sensors back in probly november but from what ive heard when u have 2 new sensor and 2 old ones the 2 old ones die out much faster?
I dunno, wow I rele need some more suggestions cuz i rele hope its not gonna cost 2-4,000 dollars
i replaced 2 of the o2 sensors back in probly november but from what ive heard when u have 2 new sensor and 2 old ones the 2 old ones die out much faster?
I dunno, wow I rele need some more suggestions cuz i rele hope its not gonna cost 2-4,000 dollars
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
The CEL could be one of many different things, not necessarily the O2 sensors. Advance, Autozone and O'Reilleys will pull the codes for free, just pull in there and ask them.
When you get the codes read, write down the code and don't take their word for it when they say what it is. Those code readers give you general descriptions with their results and they aren't manufacturer specific so get the code and look it up in the haynes manual.
For the transmission the first thing you should do is check the fluid level after driving a few miles. Stop and run through the gears then put the truck in neutral with the e-brake on and check it. If you check the fluid in park it won't be accurate.
A rebuild (if you actually need one) should average $1500 to $2000.
Before you think about a rebuild you should go to a reputable transmission shop and have them connect their scan tool to the truck and test drive it so they can see what the transmission is doing. A good shop won't charge for diagnostics in the hopes that you will have them rebuild it.
When you get the codes read, write down the code and don't take their word for it when they say what it is. Those code readers give you general descriptions with their results and they aren't manufacturer specific so get the code and look it up in the haynes manual.
For the transmission the first thing you should do is check the fluid level after driving a few miles. Stop and run through the gears then put the truck in neutral with the e-brake on and check it. If you check the fluid in park it won't be accurate.
A rebuild (if you actually need one) should average $1500 to $2000.
Before you think about a rebuild you should go to a reputable transmission shop and have them connect their scan tool to the truck and test drive it so they can see what the transmission is doing. A good shop won't charge for diagnostics in the hopes that you will have them rebuild it.
