i did a compression test to try to figure out y my truck burns so much oil (1qt per 150-200mi).
all cylinders pressure rose with each stroke (if pressure built slowly i indicated it)
#1-165 dry/190wet
#2-143 dry/195 wet, built slow on wet only
#3-155 dry/180 wet, built slow on wet only
#4-145 dry/175 wet
#5-155dry/185 wet
#6-155 dry/185 wet
#7 125 dry/ 165 wet
#8 115 dry/165 wet

cylinders tested in following order 2,4,6,8,1,3,5,7

 

i interpret #8 as a tad low, but ok.
and overall - i'd say its very good.

have you fixed your plenum?
do any plugs look worse than the others?
do you have any serious blue smoke at start, idle, or at rpm?
have you replaced your pcv? it might be stuck open, it should rattle.

 

My 2001 manual says 100psi minimum, that being said, #8 is a little low compared to the others, but it doesn't surprise me, since #8 is one of the hottest cylinders.

Ditto on checking the plenum and pcv valves.

 

ive tested the plenum per the instructions in the tsb and got 3psi within about 15 seconds so i turned the truck off cuz the tsb said not to let it get any higher than 3psi. with that said ther was pressure not vac which i guess means my plenum is good?? if i look into the tb i see some black grit along with some "wetness" but its seems clear and doesnt look like oil. i just replaced the pcv, pcv hose and breather a few months ago. got all those parts at advance. the pcv still rattles so i guess its good.

 

smoke increses as rpms increase. i just replaced the plugs yestrday but after driving it a while, #1 may have had some soot on it idk

 

just thinking out loud of all possible ways that oil can enter the cylinder and get burned off.

head gasket - impossible with your compression readings.
rings - unlikely with your readings.
valve seals - likely.
valve guides - maybe.
plenum - likely.

 

The wet test on cylinders 7 & 8 are a bit high, I would think, I have always been told on a wet test you dont want more then 25 psi difference..

 

Generally speaking, I have always told people when it comes to compression tests on worn/used engines, the lowest compression reading should be no less than 75% of the highest reading. So in your case, the highest value is 165 psi (dry)/190 psi (wet) , so you should not get a reading of 125 psi (dry)/143 psi (wet) or lower on any other cylinder. But a true compression test should be done when the engine has reached operating temperature. Although, based on #7 and #8 the rings could be bad or it could be bad valve seals.

 

well i did give the order i tested the cylinders for a good reson-so u wuld know ther was some cussn and thrown stuff tryn to get the compression tester tube in to a couple of those damn heat shield so the last cylinders tested wer cooler. i did all the cylinders dry then all the cylinders wet. haynes manual says no less than 100 psi... and if you get a low reading to do a wet test, but i did them wet anyhow even tho they wernt low. i may have put to much oil in them, idk. my thoughts are that since the readings are so damn good i wuldnt even take into account the diferences b/w wet and dry, but idk u guys are more experienced than me. i wuld just buy an airgap and call it a day but i did the plenum test and it showed pressure, no vac. it seems that both bad valves and bad rings wuld give low readings. but idk guys anymore suggestions?

 

bad valve seals and/or guides will not show up on a compression test.

bad valve seats, head gasket, cracked head, rings will show up

i would like to believe your plenum is ok, and the test is valid, etc, etc, but all these son's of bitches leak.