When I got this truck racing or dyno runs never crossed my mind. What did was pulling my fishing boat, getting me to my hunting spots and hauling lumber and mulch....just sayin. It was built with a purpose in mind and it wasn't racing.

 

Buy a Neon SRT-4 then you will be able to smoke him. Very fast cars and can be had for cheap.

 

^^PLEASE DONT INSULT MY TRUCK LIKE THAT^^

I am the ONLY guy Ive ever heard(12yrs various Ram forums) to run 13.99 with bolt ons only & stock 5.9

I had stock tb, stock kegger (untouched) stock heads, stock valve train, stock compression, stock bottom end & stock ci.


At time of 13.99 pass I did have
14x2.25" K&N inside ramairbox (went to 3" tall much later)
March 3pc alum pulleys
Flexilite Efans
Eddy hdrs, ypipe
Maganflow 3" h/f cat (gutted @ time of 13.99 pass)
MP PCM
Msd blaser coil
Taylor 8.0 wires
Bosch Platinum plugs gapped .40 (.05 over stock)
Synthetic oil in mtr, trans & diff
Trans cooler
2500 stall tc
Transgo race shift kit
MT Sportsman fronts 28x7.5"
MT ET Streets 28x12.5" running Weld Draglite rims f/r.
Sitting at the line (back then/not now) at 3865lbs (plus me/180lbs at time)

12.91 et was run with the above (minus ramairbox/mp pcm)
52mm fastman tb
M1/2bbl intake
RT+10 cam
Crower 1.7rr
FMS 24lb matched inj
Procharger D-1SC w/3core (3.5" pulley/only making 7psi)

Stock computer was screwing things up.
The mtr changes needed custom tuning.
SMT6 piggyback tuner gave about 15rwhp gain above MP PCM tune when NA but wreaked havoc when I tried to use it with boost.
Had to run stock computer which meant shifting 400-500rpm below where mtr made peak hp on the dyno when na

I have never run my 408 blown or na at the dragstrip.
My 408NA, should run 12.4-12.5(1/4m)
With 8.5psi it may run 10.8 (1/4m)

 

Only 7 psi of boost and its making how much hp at the wheels?
Damn.
Too bad the PCM's seem to be holding things back a little bit...or are you not running a PCM??

 

well i want a srt4 but i love my truck
its the only thing that still stands while all my other vechicle

and i want to make it faster and thx for some new ideas and im gonna try to get to 260whp even if i have to drop 4k

 

7psi was with stock computer & the mild 360 was making about 390rwhp when I ran the 12.91 et

Expect the 408 to be around 375rwhp NA, will use MP PCM for running the Ramzilla trans (PATC) & FAST stand alone engine management for laptop tuning.
Depending on how much boost it will make at 6000rpm, should see anywhere from 560-600rwhp (9psi = 600rw)

 

Then get ready to get a new transmission when you ruin it racing.

And Indy. I never went to your website until now. I thought your time in your sig was with your SC408.

And 13.99 with "bolt ons"....those are A LOT of bolt ons. I have the 3 piece march pulleys. I just need to get a balancer to bolt onto the crank pulley. I am thinking I will mess that one up. I almost PMed you about how to do that.

So now I will ask. What balancer do I need and how hard is it to install?

 

Then I'd like to see a Honda pull my 24' camper, haul 5 sheets of concrete board and 3 drywall sheets, a pallet of fiberglass insulation, a kitchen full of cabinets, a Cub Cadet, 3 tractor buckets of fill dirt, french door, etc...

BTW thats what a truck is sopposed to do, haul and carry ****. And they do it good. Judging by your sig, you blew the trans in your Capice, why are you 'racing' your only avalible DD? Doesnt seem like a good idea to me. I wouldnt worry about a compact car. It doesnt matter what you do to your truck, the lighter car will always win because it has a much better power:weight ratio than your truck. It will be faster in a straight line, and will certainly be faster going around a corner, which is a real test of vehicle performance and driving skill.

If you want to beat Hondas with something that has a bed, put a V8 in a S-10.

 

you blew the trans in your Capice, why are you 'racing' your only avalible DD?


well that was my first car and 2 and from work car and blew needed to be rebuilt

and i dont race all the time. just when some one wants to race cuz of the exaust all bark but no bite

 

No reason to remove the balancer
Just remove the 6-1/2" bolts holding the the stock crank pulley & remove it
Bolt the u/d pulley back on.

To remove a balancer you need a special puller.
Sort of like a reverse 3jaw that looks like chicken feet.
You use the bolts from the pulley & attach the feet to the face of the balancer.
Best to remove the balancer/crank bolt washer then put the bolt back in.
That way you wont screw up the threads in the crank which can happen if you have the bolt out.