Crankshaft front seal replacement?
Hi, I hope somone can answer the following question for me: 1998 ram 1500, 5.2 litre.
I have the timing cover removed and original crank seal removed. Is it really nescessary to use the recommended guide/installation driver to install a new seal? If I am careful, would it be acceptable to gently tap the new seal into it's bore using a large socket which bears on the outer diameter of the seal? Timing cover would be well supported on bench obviously and the seal "driven home" until it bottomed on the cover.
Also, I've heard the seal should go in without any lube on the sealing lip? Should I be installing it dry to a dry crank?
Thank you for any help you might offer. Miles.
I have the timing cover removed and original crank seal removed. Is it really nescessary to use the recommended guide/installation driver to install a new seal? If I am careful, would it be acceptable to gently tap the new seal into it's bore using a large socket which bears on the outer diameter of the seal? Timing cover would be well supported on bench obviously and the seal "driven home" until it bottomed on the cover.
Also, I've heard the seal should go in without any lube on the sealing lip? Should I be installing it dry to a dry crank?
Thank you for any help you might offer. Miles.
welcome to df.
its ok to tap it in using a hammer and socket or something similar. i used a block of wood. tap only on the rim and try not to bend or deflect the inner part of the metal, or it will deform it and cause it to leak.
install the seal into the cavity dry, no sealer or anything. tap it all the way to the bottom of the cavity.
i can't remember where the sealing surface is - crank or balancer? i'll assume its the balancer ???????? so
when installing the timing cover, take care not to nick the seal on the crank or keyway.
when installing the balancer, lube the balancer sleeve and rubber part of the seal with engine oil. you don't want a dry start.
its ok to tap it in using a hammer and socket or something similar. i used a block of wood. tap only on the rim and try not to bend or deflect the inner part of the metal, or it will deform it and cause it to leak.
install the seal into the cavity dry, no sealer or anything. tap it all the way to the bottom of the cavity.
i can't remember where the sealing surface is - crank or balancer? i'll assume its the balancer ???????? so
when installing the timing cover, take care not to nick the seal on the crank or keyway.
when installing the balancer, lube the balancer sleeve and rubber part of the seal with engine oil. you don't want a dry start.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Sep 24, 2010 at 07:40 AM.
Thanks for your responses. The job started out as a simple coolant leak at the water pump housing but closer inspection revealed the gasket between the timing cover and engine block had failed at the upper left corner as seen when facing engine from the front. Once the timing cover was removed I decided to replace the timing chain and sprockets, crank seal, and stubby little bypass hose. 195,000 kms so it was due and I don't want to have to go back in there if I can help it ! Did the thermostat, plugs, oil and filter and fresh coolant. Job went very well and you are right DHV the seal rides on the hub of the balancer.
I did make one error. When I disconnected the neg. terminal at battery I failed to shield it and later on when the alternator was disconnectd the neg battery terminal grounded to battery and I blew the 140 amp fuse for the alternator charge cuircut. Only place I could find a replacement was the dealership. Lesson learned.
I did make one error. When I disconnected the neg. terminal at battery I failed to shield it and later on when the alternator was disconnectd the neg battery terminal grounded to battery and I blew the 140 amp fuse for the alternator charge cuircut. Only place I could find a replacement was the dealership. Lesson learned.



