Was just curious, Thanks.

 

The positive crankcase ventilation system that came out in the 1960's was one of the first forms of emission controls.

 

It always costs less, initially, to mickey mouse a halfass solution to the problem. The bill comes due later when the automatic transmission or the engine leave you on the side of the road waiting for a wrecker.

Duh. Unless you're running a waterless coolant a 210 degree thermostat would quickly lead to a grisly engine death due to nucleate boiling around the cylinders.

I don't know who "they" is, but it doesn't include the folks who make 215 degree thermostats for use with waterless coolant.

 

The cooling system is pressurized, raising the boiling point...


Some food for thought.

 

Yep, a simple thing like the radiator cap is one of the most important components of the system. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

 

You should really take some time to organize your thoughts and figure out what is your point exactly. First, lower temp is bad, now my engine leaves me on the side of the road due to overheating, because I didnt beef up the cooling...

Changing the tstat for a lower temperature in this case is like using better spark plugs to improve ignition. Yeah, I can get better results by replacing the entire engine, but at this point I would rather be "halfassing"...

Never heard of this for a v-10 ram engine. The only tstats Ive been able to find are 170, 180 and OEM 190.

I've seen the graph and it talks about hotrods, not heavy duty trucks. We also don't know what engine is used to create the graph and under what conditions the results were collected. Was this an engine for drag racing or one from a Honda Civic? When I read that website it appeared to me that the guy pulled it out of his a$$, since no details were given, whatsoever.

 

Since it's a 50 hour test, I highly doubt it was a drag engine... Ford has done the studies too. If your coolant isn't getting hot enough, your oil will not get hot enough and you will increase wear, it isn't rocket science.

Not to mention the implications of running too cool with an EFI system and having it stuck in open loop.

 

My thoughts were well organized, and I think adequately expressed. But thanks so much for making this personal, as I was in danger of being too generous in my estimation of the human race.

The thermostat does not determine the capacity of your cooling system, only the temperature range in which the coolant will be maintained if the system capacity is not exceeded. Once the thermostat is wide open, it's wide open and there's nothing more it can do -- if the engine is dumping more waste heat into the cooling system than it can transfer, then the engine temperature is going to continue to rise well beyond the wide-open temperature of the thermostat.

Running too cool is bad, running too hot is bad. That's easy enough to grasp, isn't it?

That is a terribly flawed analogy. If the capacity of the cooling system is x BTU/hr and the engine generates 1.2x BTU/hr, the thermostat has no effect on the final temperature the engine reaches.

So if you haven't seen them they don't exist?

 

Well, this conversation became way to academical, i.e. with no practical application whatsoever.

For the dyno fans, I am sure that every degree in either direction make some kind of geeky difference, but in the real world when towin heavy loads cooler engine is ALWAYS a plus. And I am not talking about cooler as in 150 degrees, but cooler as staying away from the 210 mark on the gauge. You guys keep on talking about this subject as a cold-start engine, i.e. you have obviously never towed heavy stuff.

UnregisteredUser - hook an 8,000lbs load behind your 1/2 ton and take it up a long hill, then come back here and share with us your findings Until you do so, this conversation is nothing but yarn.

 

I've owned several travel trailers ranging from 22' to 30'. Nice try, thank you for playing.