Based on what you replaced. How is the TPS?

 

I removed and tried to clean it but it looks like is seal. Althougt I sprayed a cleaner and maybe reach the interior but I noticed when is running, if I remove the TPS the RPM increases that's why I think is working. If I removed the conector for the IAC, nothin happen. There's 12V on the IAC A terminal.

 

I have a few factory TPS's in my spare parts box I could send to you to see if a different one works. Is it flat pin style?

 

Very kind of you but I don't want to trouble you. In really I appreaciate that.Thank you.
Do you think I have to go the parts store and try a new one? I spent a lot of money on all this parts in that store so they won't mind if I buy a new one, test it anf if is necessary, return the part back.
All of this start a week ago when I decided to do a routine maintenance and change spark plugs, air filter and IAC. Before this, everything was fine. I never check with an scan tool but I don't have Check Engine light and maybe was on for a long time and I didn't notice but the performance always was good...I think.

 

For one, get rid of those. These engines are designed to run best with cheap Champion copper plugs.

Now, to correctly determine if the IAC has failed, you need a scanner with bi-directional capability; You need to be able to control the IAC and compare desired vs. actual RPM. Without that ability, you're guessing. Unplugging the unit won't tell you anything. They're stepper motors, and will stay exactly where they were.

Now, does you idle drop significantly when you put it in gear or when the A/C compressor engages? If it does, then yes, it sound like and IAC issue (that includes connector and wiring). If not, you need to start looking for vacuum leaks. 1,000 is very high for a warm engine. There's a vacuum port on the side of the manifold that is capped from factory on most engines, but that cap deteriorates (or gets eaten my rodents), and causes a leak. And there are other places that it could be leaking vacuum as well. The easiest way to find a vacuum leak is with a can of carb clean or brake clean sprayed around the intake and vacuum hoses while the eninge is idling. If it has a leak, pulling in the cleaner will cause an over rich condition and drop engine RPM.

However, before you do that, you mentioned a whistle at part throttle. Sounds like your air horn gasket is shot. Replace that before you go looking for vacuum leaks, as it'll give you a false symptom and send you on a wild goose chase.

 

Do you think is good idea replace the spark plugs for the cheaper champions?
The RPM never drops. Are Ok when cold. After reach 195 degrees, are over 1000-1500
Sorry the dumb question...what's the "air horn"

 

I wouldn't have suggested doing so if I didn't. If there's one thing that holds universally true, that'd be that is ALWAYS best to use the OEM spark plugs in any application. If you've made significant modifications, obviously you need to select the correct plug to match those parameters. Otherwise, go with what came in it from factory.

The air horn is the top of a throttle body or carburetor, where the air cleaner or intake tube attaches. On your truck, there is a gasket. If that gasket is damaged or missing, you get that whistle, as it is pulling air in front of the air cleaner through a small opening.

 

far as i know the heater controls are run off vacum and with what you said it may still have a vacum leak but its inside the cab and is your problem. mite plug off the vacum line that runs inside the cab and see what that does for ya.

 

Today new gasket for air cleaner intake (never was there). No signs of any vacuum leak....I will test again right now...

 

Yesterday I checked the TPS and looks OK. Voltage increases at center wire with the throtle advance.
I checked the MAP sensor and voltage should increase with RPM but is not. I bought a new one today and will install tomorrow morning. I will test and post results