I know when I replaced my timing chain, my fuel sync had to be adjusted. I too had installed the new chain at 4 degrees advanced.

The first few tries at starting the engine resulted in a little rough coughing, a slight back-fire, then nothing but the starter turning the engine. I was beginning to panic thinking I really screwed something up!

After I calmed myself down and mentally went back over everything I had done, I felt confident I had done everything correctly. The only thing I could think of was fuel sync. I then tried rotating the distributor, figuring that maybe it was off by a few degrees since the old chain had been pretty bad and the new one was advanced by 4 degrees. Sure enough, I was able to fire it up and after adjusting back ad forth for smoothest running, everything was fine. Of course the fuel sync should be set correctly by the proper equipment for best results... this little adjustment only confirmed that the fuel sync had been slightly off from the chain replacement.

I don't know if this applies to what you are experiencing, but I figured it might help.

 

talked to my buddy at dodge he is going to hook it up to the compter up there and see whats what.. he said they have the sensors on hand just in case.. im going to try it with the ones tha are in it now and if i wont work at least i got a blan b lol he kinda looked at me funny when i told him id put em on in the parking lot if it needed em...... dont really want to pay then a hundred bucks an hour to do it.....

 

Just make sure you tell him to reset the fuel sync.

 

10-4 on that if the SYNC doesnt do it i have no idea where to go from there.. i tried moving the distributor a little, seemed to do nothing what gets me is this thing wont throw a code at all even tho it is obviously miss firing and the timing is way out of whack

 

Keep in mind that the Hypertech tuning is based on the stock VIN info and tuning.
If you have not done so yet you may want to remove the Hypertech tuning until the running problem is resolved to make sure it is not in conflict with your mods.
You can then re-install and see if the tuning is in compliance with the changes you have made

GW
Hypertech Inc.

 

have been running it stock until i get this figured out, tried it with the tuner and only made it worse so its sittting stock as for right now

 

You are correct here: moving the dizzy didn't do anything other than create another problem: misalignment of spark to face of conducing face of the terminal blade inside the cap.

Rotating the clocking of the cap changes nothing as far as what is happening at the PCM program level for, the PCM program is STILL going to initiate the COIL PULSE and DWELL time EXACTLY as it was PRIOR to re-clocking the cap.

This results in electrical flow, arriving to the ROTOR at precisely at the same exact time as it was before changes were made to the clocking of the cap. So, what you have now is, voltage arriving to the rotor at the same-time (x-ms)which now ARCS across at an angle, thus increasing the DISTANCE to which, the spark must move through air to the thinner edge of PIN 1's contact blade. This creates not only a DELAY / RETARDATION in spark time, IT IS HARD on the terminating point for, it will break down the contact edge faster vs. the wide blade termination point the spark was intended to arc over to. In addition, the PCM may attempt to compensate for this retardation by readjusting the timing at the program level thus bringing it back to where it was thus defeating clocking the cap by changing the frequency of the PULSE ON / OFF.

The approach of moving the cap is normally discouraged for adjustment of the timing on EFI equipped vehicles and, whether advancing or retarding it, should never be done that way on an EFI vehicle (in my opinion). The time table should be adjusted by the programmer and, FLASHED into the PCM and, in order to determine HOW much, to advance it to match your CAM offset to CRANK, to FUEL sync is usually determined AFTER connecting some form of sensor-based, software monitoring system in combination with the OEM OBD system or, by placing a scope on the ignition system to see what the firing line looks like over time. Then, based on that, the timing can be adjusted in small increments and re-scoped until achieving the desired results to suit your setup and application needs.

So, that is why you noted a NO CHANGE condition when re-clocking of the cap.

CM

 

I am going to recommend placing the OEM CPS and CKPS back into the vehicle and retesting. WHY?

BW and every aftermarket CPS and CKPS that I have ever tried in my own Dodge, NEVER WORKED right. WHAT HAPPENED?

I had replaced both FOUR TIMES from NAPA, Kraigen etc and, in ALL CASES I had the following occur:

-BACKFIRING

-WOULD NOT START

-WOULD NOT IDLE

-POPPING

-DID NOT RUN

ACTION ITEM: PUT OEM SENSORS BACK IN AND RETEST

RESULTS: TRUCK RAN FINE

No other changes were made by the way- it was isolated to sensors that were out of whack. Waveform was most likely degrees out of sync with the EFI parameters programmed at the PCM level.

Please place the OEM sensors back into the vehicle and retest. Remember to disconnect the NEG BAT cable prior. This will ensure complete reset of values stored in memory at the PCM memory level.

Start with that first. The only other thing that would really louse things up, CAM timing is too large of an offset for your PCM thus, requiring custom tuning in order to bring it into time with the rest of the system.

Oh, one more thing here before I forget, FUEL SYNC. This would also need to be dialed in. If it is too far out, it just won't run from the start.

You see, in this case, there's been some major changes such as a totally different engine, and, another CAM, and two new master timing sensors VS. the SAME PCM.

I feel it is important to highlight that because, when looking at that, right away, we're expecting there to be an issue between PCM and the new engine. After re-reading the very first post again, I felt the need to point this out. This is not a huge issue. It may be somewhat disconcerning to you but, overall, it's most likely going to get resolved once you have someone that has the proper equipment RE-TIME your CAM to CKPS relationship WITH the PCM along with syncing the FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM (FUEL SYNC) to that.

Once that has been established, you should be able to relax for, the motor should run just fine providing, that the engine itself is of sound mind and body - mechanically speaking that is.


CM

 

what cam #?
is there a reason you installed it at 4degrees advanced? some cams already have 4degrees built in to them.

 

its a comp custom grind, its based of the 262h but it has .480 lift on both intake and exhaust

the mopar sensors almost cleared up the problem, im still taking it in to get it re flashed and synced