i replaced my track bar with a new Moog from rockauto for $108 + shipping. that thing is massive! and heavy. my original had a little play in the axle end, and the ball stud was loose as a goose. the truck drives a little better and doesn't wander around as much.

here's some tips.

the tie rod/drag link stuff is in the way of removing the axle bolt. put both sides on jack stands under axle tubes and remove drivers side tire to get at the upper ball stud.

place a jack under the front drivers side body and jack it up about 4 inches. unlock steering wheel and move steering towards passenger side (i think) to align the thinnest part of the drag link with the bolt. this is the magic point where the axle bolt will come out cleanly. remove it.

loosen the ball stud nut but leave it on, so that when the bar comes out of the socket, it will drop some, but not all the way out, and won't hit you in the head. use a pickle fork and BFH to separate it.

place axle end of new bar into slot, but don't bolt it in. use a rubber hammer to smack the ball stud in the direction you need. tilt it toward the passenger side to get it started. then smack the bar towards passenger side to straighten the stud and get it into position. install the nut loosely.

install the axle end loosely. torque the upper and install cotter pin. remove the body jack and torque axle end. install grease fitting and grease and finish up.

i did not have to push on the body or pull it with a jack strap or anything like that to align the axle side. i did use 2 screwdrivers to align the bar with the hole. there's a little slot in the bottom passenger side that a medium sized screwdriver will fit into.

I just wanted to add that you do not need a pickle fork for removing tie rod ends. You just have to smack the knuckle or pitman arm right at the rod end, and it will loosen up after a few solid hits. I haven't used a pickle fork in years, and I do LOT of axle and steering swaps.

Thought I'd bump this up with a thanks to Mr. Vaughan for taking the time. Just finished this job on my truck and the thread was alot of help.
A couple of things....in my case the when the front suspension was in full "droop" there was clearance to access the axle bolt (passenger side). So I didn't have to turn the wheel for clearance around the tie-rod. I also have an air compressor and used an air chisel with a ball-joint fork. God what a wonderful invention. But be sure to take heed of the OP's advice and leave the ball-joint nut on by a few threads. When mine let loose it sounded like like a grenade and had I not had the nut in place it could have been ugly.
Piece of cake really. Done in about 30 minutes.
And I also went with the MOOG. I'm on ADVANCE AUTO's mailing list....$114 shipped.

to old **** thread, but it reads very helpful to me.

From what I've read around here, dvaughn is a very capable dude. I'll take the flak, but does the drag link really need to be DCed???? Yeah, I admit I have not looked for what kind of clearance I have.

ive had a brand new track bar (moog) sitting in my garage for months. Might have a buddy help me install it today. I have a bad back reason for not installing it sooner.

no, the drag link should NOT be disconnected.
there is no reason to do so.
you just need to either
A. jack up the body and let the axle hang
or
B. jack up the body a little bit, and turn the steering wheel a little so the passenger side track bar bolt will clear the drag link.

Thanks sir dhvaughan.

Ended up just putting a jack on passenger side, followed by driver side. Got a little body lift as you state in B to get the clearance and unsprung weight off the track bar for removal. Was a breeze!