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1998 4x4 balljoint replacement

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Old 11-03-2010 | 03:58 PM
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Default 1998 4x4 balljoint replacement

Finished removing balljoints. I installed the upper with absolutely no problems, the bottom one, however, is so loose I cant even spin the nut on it. Any suggestions as to where to go from here? I cant really afford to put in a new axle. I've heard that these axles have that problem and the most popular solution for it would be to spot weld the new balljoint in. Is this safe?

**edit** I did double check to see if the part # was correct
 
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Old 11-03-2010 | 04:01 PM
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Is the stud spinning in the joint, or is the whole joint spinning in the inner C?

I would clean the threads up (run a tap if you have one), that should help. Either way, I wouldn't hesitate tacking it down in a couple places around the joint.
 
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Old 11-03-2010 | 04:09 PM
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The whole joint is spinning in the inner C. Appologize for the vaugness of the post
 
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Old 11-03-2010 | 05:16 PM
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Spot weld will be fine. You use MOOG?
 
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Old 11-03-2010 | 05:44 PM
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No, I used OE brand because they are extremely cheap. This is a dedicated plow truck POS rust bucket, but is serves me well. These balljoints are so cheap that the bottom balljoints grease zerk is too tall and the u joint hits it and binds. Thanks for the good info, really appreciate it.
 
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Old 11-03-2010 | 06:28 PM
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So that's another brand that's not the right size. I had the same problem on my 98 with MOOG. The factory BJ's have splines and the after market ones do not. This is good info. When I do mine on the 2000, I will be getting them from the dealer. I'm not going through that BS on my 2500, which also plows. I don't care how much they will cost from the stealer.
 
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Old 11-03-2010 | 07:36 PM
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Yea, tell you the truth, it was a nightmare. also, beware if you're plowing with a 1500, the frames crack pretty bad if you abuse it. mine did.

**edit** yes, the OE balljoints are splined.
 



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