I need to replace the blocks. The current blocks are 4 3/4". From what I read OEM is 2". So the previous owner placed spacers in the front end and did a level kit. But with sagging over time the rear is now just even. So I want to replace the blocks and U-bolts.

This is a follow up from this thread: 2500 Wheel Hop

Anyway, so with these measurements (mine right now is 4 3/4") i want to place in a 5.5" to add the 3/4" which will make up the difference for a nose down appearance but without messing up my tailoring setups cause I tow a lot.

So with this choice to move to a 5.5" will I need tapered blocks or flat blocks? And is a 5.5" block actually 5.5" or is it 7.5" over stock because stock is 2"?

I have 3" springs with factory overloads. Who makes a good block, and I would like to get them with bump stops? Any links?

 

if you get bigger blocks yes i would get the tapered style, it helps your pinion angle. IMO i would just add a leaf to the rear rather than play with blocks

 

blocks are measured by actuall block size so a 5.5 inch block will measure 5.5 inches please get tappered blocks i went with the flat 3 inch blocks on my truck then within 2 months i broke a u joint in the back. I beleive it to be caused from the bad pinion angle so i went ahead and spent the extra money and got tappered blocks. i got my blocks from top gunz coustomz off of ebay at a fair price

 

I would not be going to a bigger block, look for a new spring pack by one of the lift company’s. V10+towing+5.5” block will not go over well, it will most likely cause axle wrap. I need to ask, does this truck have a small lift? If so does it have a track bar bracket or an adjustable track bar? Even small lifts need the track bar adjusted to stop dogtracking. How was it determined that the rear diff is out of square? And which way is it out?

 

So you would suggest trying to fix the placement on the rear axle so that they are in line? I have pondered this as I think it can be done, just thought I would place the larger block in and knock 2 birds with one stone. I would rather stay away from a larger block as a larger block just means more movement, not to mention pinion angle. The other thing I don't like about a tappered block is that the weight doesn't sit sqaure when loaded and has the possibility of sliding forward and shearing the tit off (I have seen this happen).

During acceleration on loose terrain the back end already hopps, but I have a LS rear end at 3.55 gearing (soon to be 4.10 in a month) so that might have something to do with it, I have pondered that it was actually axle wrap. Haven't had a problem with dry asphalt, well that I know of tho.

The truck has 4 3/4" blocks on the rear, on the front it has 3" spacers on top of the springs. It sits on 285 75 16's so basically a 33" tire. So yes it has a lift. It's more of a leveling lift as you can see.

Track bar has a bracket. No-adjustable track bar.

If you measure the center of the hubs from a fixed location on the body or frame you come up with 1/2" difference. The drivers side is shorter than the passenger side, meaning the drivers side is closer to the front end that the passenger side by 1/2" or a lil more.

 

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