2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Engine to cold fault

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 12-26-2010, 03:23 PM
rdharper02's Avatar
rdharper02
rdharper02 is offline
Amateur
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Engine to cold fault

Hope someone has some insight on this one. I had to replace the water pump last month and decided to change the stat at the same time. I went against my best judgement a put a 160 in, but have since changed it out for a 180 due to getting the "engine to cold for to long" fault. I have been driving the last week and have had no problem until today. The fault popped up again. Anyone have any insight, other than going back to the factory 195? Did have some room in the coolant system, but continue to fill it as it self-purges air. I couldnt find a purge valve, but may have missed it. Any help is much appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 12-26-2010, 03:41 PM
EndIsNear's Avatar
EndIsNear
EndIsNear is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rdharper02
Hope someone has some insight on this one. I had to replace the water pump last month and decided to change the stat at the same time. I went against my best judgement a put a 160 in, but have since changed it out for a 180 due to getting the "engine to cold for to long" fault. I have been driving the last week and have had no problem until today. The fault popped up again. Anyone have any insight, other than going back to the factory 195? Did have some room in the coolant system, but continue to fill it as it self-purges air. I couldnt find a purge valve, but may have missed it. Any help is much appreciated.
I have the same problem. Replaced water pump, thermostat, flushed radiator, and even cut a wind guard out of cardboard for the radiator. Still pops up every now and then. Gonna try replacing the sensor, maybe that'll fix it...
 
  #3  
Old 12-26-2010, 04:51 PM
rdharper02's Avatar
rdharper02
rdharper02 is offline
Amateur
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If it works, let me know. I am starting to think that the new water pump flows more than the stock. Could be the problem, but Im hoping you got the fix.
 
  #4  
Old 12-26-2010, 09:51 PM
dhvaughan's Avatar
dhvaughan
dhvaughan is offline
Hall Of Fame
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Gainesville, Ga.
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

no purge valve. you just have to either wait for the air to work itself out, or park with the drivers side front of the truck up high and let the truck run for awhile with the cap off.

160 t-stat is too cold. it'll throw the code every time. most people can run a 180 with no cel, but not all.

temp sensor replacement might help. or, the 180 t-stat might be opening up a little early.

there might? also be some interaction with the air temp sensor. the trucks that operate in extreme cold climate as able to take forever to warm up and not throw the code.

search out the rules of how that code is triggered, and watch your temp gauge to see if the warm up is misbehaving in any way.
 
  #5  
Old 12-27-2010, 12:43 AM
offroadjosh's Avatar
offroadjosh
offroadjosh is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Montana
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Summer time your fine around here to run a 180* but in winter when its -30*F it throw a code..(sometimes even 195* will). I know with my 195* it hardly hit Operating temp when its super cold. So im sure its normal with a 180*?
 



Quick Reply: Engine to cold fault



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:11 PM.