how do you guys put on the fuel bypass line that came in the kit with the airgap, it wont go fully on ?

 

Have you tried heating it up a bit to make it more pliable?

 

I couldn't get mine on after going straight from boiling water onto the fuel rail.
I got the other half of what Hughes sent me on the fuel rail by heating it with a lighter but it leaked.

I went out and bought a couple feet of 300psi fuel line and slapped that on there and it didn't leak.
cmckenna informed me that rubber (even nitrile rubber) will break down over time and clog the fuel injectors. He didn't have a rubber fuel line on his truck for very long before his injectors started to clog and hindered the engines performance. He checked the fuel line by putting it into a glass jar and priming the fuel rail. As the fuel started to flow he saw rubber particles coming out with it.

He told me to get a fuel line with a teflon inner section because it won't break down when exposed to gas, so I did and that's what is on my truck now. http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144
With that fuel line you need to use fuel injection clamps instead of regular old screw clamps.
Drewactual has the other half of the fuel line that I had and he said that he ended up not needing it, if you can't get the plastic one on there (and leak free) then maybe you can talk him into sending you that line.

 

i take it that you finally got that broken bolt out? if so, how did you end up doing it? also, if you are installing the edelbrock FI airgap intake, im curious about your progress, and any problems you are having with it. been thinking about putting one on my truck. please list benefits once you get it up and running. good luck

 

yup all is good now just got to be careful with the brittle stuff like vacuum lines and plastic snaps and stuff. its a long process to get it in but again i never done this before like takig the whole front of the motor off and the brackets and the manifold

as for the bolt i was lucky it was in the front where the bottom is open to nothing so i just drilled threw it and put a longer bolt in and torqued the manifold down with a bottom bolt holding it with the rachet to the head.

the other ones wont beak because there lubed from the oil from the manifold.

other than that im looking for a vacuum line i miss that isnt engageing my 4wd and i also broke the throttle body cable clip which imgetting fixed today

still snowing like crazy to actaully see the gains. i can say it sounds good at idle

 

I still have that 300psi line, and enough to bridge the rails across the FI.. Thanks Sheriff.. I'll hold onto it until this issue arises again- and will pass it off to the next person who needs it.. Fair enough?

I'm hoping you got it squared away Lastrights... Sounds like it funked with you more than you deserved.. It's been my experience, fwiw, that the things that provide such a difficulty also pay huge dividends in the end.. Enjoy that creature.

 

thanks guys , i just heater the nipple on the fuels line and sliped it over and let it cool not coming off so far so good !.

took it to the shop to fix my throttle body cable because i ran outta time . other than that im really happy to be done ! cant wait to let er rip

 

Sure. Don't forget you have it, I wasn't sure I had enough left when I told you that I had it.
If I were you I would check and double check and triple check the ends of that crossover line to make sure it isn't leaking. Mine had a slow drip at idle when I put it on there. Along with a leaky fuel injector o-ring.

 

Those lines aren't meant to be slipped over a hot barb or tang. The material will deform under heat and open up thus, the I.D. of that line is going to be slightly oversized to the O.D. of the rail inlet fitting.

Those lines are placed on using hydraulic grippers and basically pressed over the barbs. The barbs are cooled with LN2 and the line is heated up to a specific set-point using a heated mold inside the hydraulic gripper assembly. This is the OEM method of installing the harder, thicker walled (PTFE variant) X-OVER line. This method causes the I.D. to open up while decreasing the O.D. of the fuel line inlet port. This makes it much easier to slip the line over the fitting as there's less interference.

I would remove that line immediately and replaced with the afore hose listed in that link from Sheriff. That hose will work, it's safe and, completely chemically stable for use with modern fuel that contains additives.

If you're dead set on keeping that line on there after having been melted and deformed on the inside, I would be checking that line every day for fear of weeping fuel. Even though it may "appear" to be solid and, "not coming off", it's not so much that it pops off but, that it's going to weep or spray fuel on a hot motor while driving. One may not be aware of a potentially serious problem is going on underneath the hood.

If I had to choose a failure here, I'd choose the hose completely letting go thus stalling the motor out. At least, there's an indicator that something is wrong and it's time to address it. Plus, the odds of an engine bay fire go down as it's a one time failure and non-re-occurring.

With a latent failure such as a weeping fuel line or, perhaps one that's pissing fuel for hours on end, that type of failure leads to higher probability of an engine bay fire while driving. The odds are now stacked against the driver.



CM

 

Just to add a little to that: Lastrights, it wouldn't be a bad idea to carry a fire extinguisher around in the truck for a couple weeks. I did when I installed the airgap just because I was messing with the fuel lines.