Hub Nut Size?
 

I went to O'Reilly's and couldn't find a 1-11/16" socket for the hub nut. They laughed and said they never heard of one that big. But all the hub nut sockets they have are metric. So....what size hub nut socket in metric do I need? I know that 1-11/16" = 42.8625mm. But is that a 42mm or 43mm? The largest I see O'Reilly's have in stock are 36mm.

Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

OMG, It's 1 11/16's 43 mm will work but might be a little loose. Don't ever go back to or spend ANY money at that store again. Go to Sears or a REAL parts store.

What is a REAL Parts store. O'Reilly's has been great for me.

btw - Napa doesn't carry anything that big either.

Well, I'm no fan of NAPA but did "They laugh and said they never heard of one that big"? O, autozone and advance are a joke. Like I said, go to Sears and get the socket you need. While you are there, get a 14mm 12 point impact socket for the hub bolts.

Where I live, all the Checker Autos that I know of where replaced by O'Reilly's. Checker was the most worthless parts store ever, I have not shopped at O'Reilly's. I usually by parts on-line, but if I need something same day, I go to Napa first, then Advanced Auto. As a last resort, I go to Autozone. In this case though, you need a tool store, not a parts store. Try Sears or even Home Depot or Lowes. Or go online and find a Snap-on dealer in your area.

This may be a dumb question, but am I reading things right? Sears Hardware wants $50-$65 for the socket alone???

Doesn't surprise me.

delete

Sorry but it is dumb!!!!!!!!!! http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4&blockType=G4!

I found that auto zone. I think I paid 15 bucks for it in 3/4 drive maybe 1 inch I can't remember. I know, I know, autozone. I only go there for the cheep stuff that doesn't really matter to much. Kinda like which home improvement store do you go to. If you try to save money you get cheep stuff.

So a 12pt will work on a typical 6pt nut?

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/p...ythreadyl7.jpg


Yes, it will work.

Do you have a harbor freight by you? thats where i got my 3/4 in rachet and breaker if i remember it was only 40 and i've used it many times since then

Sears has them if it's a full blown Sears and not one of the little appliance outlets. It was $20 the last time I was there.

I got mine at Tractor Supply for $6, a T-handle 3/4" drive breaker bar for $15 and an impact adapter that is 1/2" to 3/4" drive because the torque wrench is 1/2" drive.
The brand is Master Hand and they seem like well built tools. They have a lifetime warranty too.

If that guy thinks a 1 11/16" socket is big then he should see the 2 1/2" sockets at Tractor Supply.

:icon_laugh:


The wife wants to know why I am over here laughing at the computer screen hahahah

It surely will. But a 6 point wont work on a 12 point.

Its a 43 mm....

1 11/16" is 5 thousandths smaller.
1 3/4" is 57 thousandths bigger.

All will work, but the 1 3/4" is a sloppy fit.

Find another NAPA...

use a chisel and a hammer. works like a charm and saves you 65 bucks

HAHAHAHA yeah, till you have to buy two more axle nuts because you destroyed them in the process of removing them.

I suppose you simple torque that nut back down to 175 ft.lbs with the hammer and chisel too?

Haha, He must have a 175ft lb torque stick chisel too ;)

Who is spending $65? My socket only cost $6.

From where? Oh...Tractor Supply. I think I will head there first. That is where I bought my compressor and air-tools. I have always loved a Tractor Supply Store.

I got mine from carquest and it was the correct size. I tried the metric sockets on the nut and wasn't comfortable with the fit. I think it was $30 for the socket.

if you have a tractor supply near by, they have em in stock and there right around 20 bucks

If it requires a lot of torque to break the nut loose, a 12 point socket will round off the 6 point nut!

My socket is 12 point and it didn't round the nut even a little bit.

+1, the socket would break long before rounding the nut.

Well, I stopped by Tractor Supply today and picked up the $6.99 6-point 1-11/16" 1/2" socket. I also picked up a 1/2" breaker bar to go along with it for $19.99. And the 12-point 14mm socket was $4.99. Now if I can only figure out a way to pound out the U-joints without using a table vice.

I used two rocks....... they were fairly flat, so, I put the ears of the joint on those, and tapped gently on the shaft to pop one of the caps off, rolled it over, and did the other side. Works great. Bricks would be fine as well. Wood might work... but, also might be too soft.

I broke my vise last time I did some u-joints. I'll tell ya, if you can spare a few dollars, I would totally recommend buying harbor freights 3 in 1 service set. Price went up from when I bought it, but was totally worth the money. Let an impact gun do the work :)

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...kit-38335.html

Hey, I used one of those for free from O'Reilly's to get my calipers to depress, and to remove some stubburn lower control arm bushings. I might have to borrow it again.

I broke a 6" heavy duty vise and a 8" c-clamp when I did the u-joints on my drive shaft. I used an arbor press to get them to finally pop out.
When I did the axle u-joints I just used a cheap deep well socket and a hammer on one and cut the other off.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3550/...43da628d_z.jpg

It's surprising how easy the caps pop out when you cut the cross out of the u-joint.

Alright I'm an idiot! When I removed mine I didn't know the size of the nut, I just grabbed my socket set and went to work. After trying to figure out why I had so much trouble with my 12 points, I looked at my set. It increases in 1/16 in sizes from 7/8 to 2", except for 1-9/16 and get this 1-11/16. Now I know.

Well...PB Blaster'd everything up this morning and about 30min later I got into it. I got as far as the hub nut. I BROKE the 3/4" breaker bar!!!! :icon_eek: Bent the fork of the bar just enough that it came apart. That was with my 290lbs standing on it. Started at it with the air chisle when I realized that if I got the nut off, I would have no way of tightening it back up. So...returning the breaker bar to Tractor Supply and seeing if they have a 1" breaker bar (don't think so, or I would have gotten it). Then if I can get a bigger breaker bar, I will heat up the nut real good before trying again.

If you aren't replacing the hub/bearing assembly, don't use heat. Sealed bearings become unsealed when severely warmed......

+1, and PB Blaster sucks. You also realize that the nut and the hub bolts need to be torqued correctly? And you'll need anti seize compound also.

Get the t-handle breaker bar and a piece of pipe, I really doubt it'll break.
Also see if you can get some CRC Knock'er Loose or Cyclo Breakaway.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3403/...13462644_b.jpg

So I have to go buy pipe. Lol. Non of my usuals fit over the breaker bar. A "t" handle breaker bar....hmmm...haven't ever come across one of those.

Ok. No heat. Thanks for that heads up.