Weird Stuff, Dont know if its a problem....
ok just went to store, and something weird happened....Its like the truck has more electricity....My subs are alot louder, my windows go up alot faster (power windows of course), but my volt meter is in the same spot it always is, a little past the 14...Also when im at stops when the subs pound it usually makes the lights flicker a little bit, but now that they are louder, they dont flicker at all....puzzling me...
Also my oil pressure is oddly high. I usually have about 40-45 psi idle, and around 50-55 psi when on the gas. But now the needle is on the line thats past the 40, the last line in the operating range before its pinned. This is like what 80PSI? but thats when im on the gas, when i let off the throttle it goes back down to 40-45psi...
Could this be an issue? or am i paranoid? I cant afford to have something to let go right now....
Also my oil pressure is oddly high. I usually have about 40-45 psi idle, and around 50-55 psi when on the gas. But now the needle is on the line thats past the 40, the last line in the operating range before its pinned. This is like what 80PSI? but thats when im on the gas, when i let off the throttle it goes back down to 40-45psi...
Could this be an issue? or am i paranoid? I cant afford to have something to let go right now....
Last edited by 95RAM360; Apr 14, 2011 at 07:50 PM.
Did this start happening shortly after you replaced the timing chain?
Reason I ask is, with less slack in the chain, your timing is more exact, and thus, the engine runs more efficiently. Perhaps this added efficiency translates into more rotational force on the alternator and thus, more voltage (but the same amperage).
The same theory would hold true for the oil pump, so it would also explain your higher oil pressure.
Keep in mind this is just a theory, but regardless of its correctness, I don't think you have anything to worry about.
Reason I ask is, with less slack in the chain, your timing is more exact, and thus, the engine runs more efficiently. Perhaps this added efficiency translates into more rotational force on the alternator and thus, more voltage (but the same amperage).
The same theory would hold true for the oil pump, so it would also explain your higher oil pressure.
Keep in mind this is just a theory, but regardless of its correctness, I don't think you have anything to worry about.
Hmmm... that is indeed a curious condition.... perhaps it has to do with the PCM learning that you replaced the timing chain.... or something... what was the weather like up there today? any environmental oddities (such as a high or low pressure system) that might have resulted in unusually dense air (and thus a more complete burn of fuel)?
Idk man, at this point I'm shooting blind LOL
Idk man, at this point I'm shooting blind LOL
it was a very warm day 55+* not much of a breeze.....but what makes me puzzled is i had to go to Providence, which is about a 70 mile round trip, and it was normal.....got home, was there for about an hour, and went to the store to get food, and it started this new "thing" its doing
If 55* is warm, I don't wanna be there when it's cold.
As to your "problem" (or lack thereof) I just looked up MA on a nationwide weather map, and it looks like the atmospheric pressure is rising (causing a spike in air density) which could make your engine run more efficiently.... dunno if that's the reason for this "issue" or not, but it is a possibility.
I have noticed a while back that on some days my truck has more "giddy up" than others, and I monitored it for a while... Then I started plotting this info against weather conditions on its "good days".... it seems that when it is cold (at least what I consider cold... ~40*) and there is a high pressure system moving in, it runs better than when the opposite conditions are present.
That being said, I have never had my oil pressure or alt performance affected by these intermittent "good days", but then again, I've never really paid attention.
At this point, I'm willing to suggest benevolent ghosts inside your engine spinning your alt and oil pump at higher rpm.... LOL, that's the best answer I can come up with. I'd just live with it until a problem becomes apparent, if it ever does.
As to your "problem" (or lack thereof) I just looked up MA on a nationwide weather map, and it looks like the atmospheric pressure is rising (causing a spike in air density) which could make your engine run more efficiently.... dunno if that's the reason for this "issue" or not, but it is a possibility.
I have noticed a while back that on some days my truck has more "giddy up" than others, and I monitored it for a while... Then I started plotting this info against weather conditions on its "good days".... it seems that when it is cold (at least what I consider cold... ~40*) and there is a high pressure system moving in, it runs better than when the opposite conditions are present.
That being said, I have never had my oil pressure or alt performance affected by these intermittent "good days", but then again, I've never really paid attention.
At this point, I'm willing to suggest benevolent ghosts inside your engine spinning your alt and oil pump at higher rpm.... LOL, that's the best answer I can come up with. I'd just live with it until a problem becomes apparent, if it ever does.
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I'd suspect battery cables/clamps that were suffering got rattled around enough to knock out some corrosion.
Y'see, the internal resistance of the battery is a very small fraction of the internal resistance of your alternator, so when a relatively large load is applied to a perfectly good system the battery will provide a helluva lot more current than the alternator will. If the battery is not so well connected to the system, as when there's corrosion between the clamps and terminals, the alternator takes up more of the load than it ought to -- and because it's relatively slow to react, you'll see the lights dim momentarily, or the other kinds of things you're seeing.
Y'see, the internal resistance of the battery is a very small fraction of the internal resistance of your alternator, so when a relatively large load is applied to a perfectly good system the battery will provide a helluva lot more current than the alternator will. If the battery is not so well connected to the system, as when there's corrosion between the clamps and terminals, the alternator takes up more of the load than it ought to -- and because it's relatively slow to react, you'll see the lights dim momentarily, or the other kinds of things you're seeing.
So your lights no longer flicker at all when the subs hit? That is very odd usually that's what you get a capacitor for to ease the sudden draws on the battery. I would also be paranoid. I would go to an auto parts store and have them test the battery and alternator. however I had them test my battery once and they said it was great and working perfectly... the next day my battery died.
Can an alternator get more efficient just before it dies?
Can an alternator get more efficient just before it dies?
battery cables/terminals are about a year old as well as the battery (i think its a 750cca batter IIRC) and the alternator doesnt look original, it looks somewhat new....i myself never changed it, but ive only had the truck about 19 months.
And yes 55* is warm....im from the sticks...i hate heat....75* is to hot for me, 55-60 is perfect for me, ill wear shorts and t-shirt at those temps.
i hunt and ice fish and im use to sitting there not moving having my snots freeze to my face, it doesnt bother me, id much rather have it cold then hot.
And yes 55* is warm....im from the sticks...i hate heat....75* is to hot for me, 55-60 is perfect for me, ill wear shorts and t-shirt at those temps.
i hunt and ice fish and im use to sitting there not moving having my snots freeze to my face, it doesnt bother me, id much rather have it cold then hot.



