OK I did back one of the switches out slowly testing for continuity in "R" between the outer two pins with the switch installed on the transmission.

Hand tight. Nothing. It took 1.5 turns out and I then got continuity. Put the connector on (more on this later), ran back to look. The back up lights were ON! I must assume the switch(es) is(are) too long. Weird.

Screwed the switch back in as little as 1/4 turn, and continuity was lost.

These two new switches were from the same vendor/autoparts store. They looked slightly different than the original Eaton switch but were obviously replacements. The connector plugged onto these two easily but I cannot use them because of the length anomaly.

I decided to try another store and get what they had. This third new switch looks just like the original Eaton switch. Shorter body, connector area different. What the hey, let's try it. Screwed all the way in and torqued to 24 ft-lbs, the outer pins have continuity in "R".

Hard to believe a possible slight difference in length is all it took. I still have no back-up lights. I know they'll work, ONCE I GET THE CONNECTOR ON THE SWITCH. It will not go.

Not the easiest area to work either from above or below. If only I could tap it on with a mallet. Believe me, I would rather not use any tools to urge it into place but I cannot do it with my fingers. I tried dabbing grease inside the connector. Of no use. Remember this switch is just like the original. In fact, I couldn't even push the connector onto the original. How tight is this supposed to be? This is maddening

 

Shouldn't be that tight - but will only go on one way. Did it connect easy before you put it in? Maybe because of tight space it isn't lined up straight.

 

When I started this project I removed the connector from the original switch in order to install the new switch. Connector fit on new switch(es) tightly but not a problem.

It was only with this workable new (third) switch, the one that is identical to the original switch, that I found, the connector won't go. It's like the concentric soft plastic between the connector and switch mate firmly but getting it there is challenging.

I got the original switch, the one the connector was on all these years.
I could not get the connector onto it even. This is the one it came off of. Makes no sense.

 

Make sure a pin on the inside of the connector or the switch isn't bent or crooked. Seems odd.

 

remove the switch and test fit the connector where you can see it.
check for proper shape, groove line-up, tabs, etc.

do NOT use a hammer.
it should slide on without any excessive pressure.

 

two things for ya
a whie back ago,somebody put an "o-ring" on the nss switch to compensate
for the "length" ....this might help ?
2nd....! I have a similiar prob with my nss But ! I cant get the damn elec plug off !
Wheres the tab on that sucker ? up top I fiqure ? press in and pull ?
PLEASE ! let me know about this plug/tab !
THANX !

 

Finally done.

The connector was simply miserable to get on the switch. It's a very tight fit.
I asked my spouse to take a look. I said it seems to me, after 15 years of heat, maybe
the plastic connector hardened. She said why not heat it up with my hair dryer?

After a few false starts, I got the plastic connector good and warm, applied it to the switch,
pushed and it seemed to give a bit. I tapped it with some pliers and it popped on.

Yes, the woman is smarter and is a great cook too:-)

The original Eaton switch has a circular lip that surrounds the three pins. This lip fits snugly into a round groove inside the connector. This seals it from the outside elements.

Bottom line is, it's a very tight fit. No amount of pushing with fingers, greasing it, oiling it,
worked. Heating the connector, did the trick

As for getting the connector off, I forget if it was too terribly hard. But I'd jiggle it and with fingers or even with pliers to grip in, pull it straight off.

Summary. The 3rd switch, that I am using, that passed all the continuity tests looked just like the original Eaton switch. I got this from Advance. The other two switches that apparently are too long yet are what comes up on the computer are from the OTHER popular national chain. This other chain cheerfully took them in return after I explained this whole mess.

Thanks for all the input. I too had thought about adding another gasket or O-ring too!

Cheers

 

i had the same problem with my 1997 dodge ram 1500 V8 with 318Hp.
I pulled the bulb and its switch unit and found that the inside of the terminal connections where very corroded which was causing JUST my reverse lights not to work. I cleaned them offf with a small piece of gritte paper and re installed the same bulbs and they worked. I believe that I will replace the bulb switch units in the near future because if it did it one time it will probley get dirty again....hope this helps...

 

Bumping this with my own question....


'98 1500, AT

Reverse lights come on in R, out in N and D, back on in 2 and 1

I'm assuming bad switch, but I had never seen that happen with a trans mounted switch, I had it happen on a column switch before, but this strikes me as odd.

Anyone had this happen?