Yeah, it would be good do see if the gauge matches what the MAP says it's doing. If not, it's the MAP.

 

Can't help with the ARP bolt's. But, did you stick a vacuum gauge on it?

 

Swapped the MAP sensor, no change.


Got a question a about the head gasket:

I'm using ARP head bolts and according to their literature and the tech I called, they should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs. dry, which is what I did. That's 5ft/lbs. Less than stock. Is it possible the head gasket did not compress enough and is causing a vac leak of some sort? As stated earlier, there is none of the typical signs of head gasket leak. Is there a possible problem there?

 

well that's a good sign anyway.

I don't know what you have for a vac tester, but, if you like. I'll copy the diagnostic/troubleshooting specs from my Mighty Vac manual.

 

Haven't had a chance yet, Zman.

I had to take it to get inspected. I passed, LOL.

 

I've seen a couple websites that have vac gauge interpretations. Let me know if this website wings true to your mighty vac manual:

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

I liked it especially for the diagnostic section at the bottom that displays what the vac gauge reads and what it might mean.

 

 

Well,
No testing this weekend, it's pouring buckets outside. Really nutty weather, but we need the rain badly, so I'll deal with it for another week.

 

Got a break in the rain, here's what it's doing on a cold engine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oQm...e_gdata_player

I'll get the hot engine in a bit when I run out to get a longer vac hose. Sorry for the crappy angle.

idles right around 15 "Hg, which I'm told is acceptable for my camshaft. That tip in off idle is what's herring me, I think.

 

Sorry, damn dbl post.