180 degree thermostat
I'm not even kidding when I say this. By trade I am an Air Defence Artilleryman! Lol 
So you are saying that a 180* may be a smart idea? I'm still not clear on that copy and paste from the website. It goes on to say that it is meant for veh's with a manual fan (which we do have) and that for winter conditions in a veh where the 160* is recomended a 180* can be substituted. What do I do in my situation where I live in a cold environment and my rec is a 180*? Its starting to sound like a 195* is what I'll be going with.
Again, thank you for your time and help.

So you are saying that a 180* may be a smart idea? I'm still not clear on that copy and paste from the website. It goes on to say that it is meant for veh's with a manual fan (which we do have) and that for winter conditions in a veh where the 160* is recomended a 180* can be substituted. What do I do in my situation where I live in a cold environment and my rec is a 180*? Its starting to sound like a 195* is what I'll be going with.
Again, thank you for your time and help.
Last edited by 8uzzsaw; Oct 20, 2011 at 11:57 AM.
Thermostats only start to open at its rated temp a 180 starts to open at 180 and a 195 starts to open at 195 . Untell either stat hit there rating they are both closed and the pcm cant tell the difference . The only difference between the two is the rated temp at which they start to open . Knowing this one can conclude that both stats will act in the exact same way up to there rated temp . By the time either stat starts to open at there rated temp the pcm is all ready in closedloop reading off the 02 sensor and adjusting for a 14.7 air fuel ratio trying to achieve the best emissions/MPG . The only time a 180 stat would affect the fueling is WOT when the engine is up to temp and in openloop . If you dont have enough heat in the cab put a winter front or block portions of your grill from the inside .
the PCM can tell the difference because it has a temperature probe stuck into the coolant passages- and can alter timing/fuel curve with that information alone..
an engine TUNED for running a lower temperature 'stat will get the same mileage as a stock engine running the stock 195* stat.. it could possibly get more power because of the ignition timing advancing.. it's ALL about the tune..
there will be an evident and real temperature change in the cab where heat is concerned using a lower temp'd 'stat.. that heater is transferring the heat from the coolant to the air... if you block off your radiator, you're not only raising the temperature of your heater, your raising the temperature of your engine... by blocking the exchange..
an engine TUNED for running a lower temperature 'stat will get the same mileage as a stock engine running the stock 195* stat.. it could possibly get more power because of the ignition timing advancing.. it's ALL about the tune..
there will be an evident and real temperature change in the cab where heat is concerned using a lower temp'd 'stat.. that heater is transferring the heat from the coolant to the air... if you block off your radiator, you're not only raising the temperature of your heater, your raising the temperature of your engine... by blocking the exchange..
PCM will adjust its timing fueling the exact same way with either stat up to there rated temp theres no way around it unless of course you write a new tune . Closedloop happens before either stat opens and the PCM is constantly trying to adjust for 14.7 ratio no matter what the temp is .
I could be wrong, But I think when Hypertech is doing the R&D as said previously. They are doing it to optimize how a "stock" vehicle runs. So they can sell to the general public(and Superchips for that matter). Where as , the SCT can accept custom tune's for using a 180 stat for example( is for a whole different crowd). All I know is, that living in NH, I'll stay with the 195 stat. I also have a PPIII that I ran on my 98, and had 0 complaints about it's performance.



