Can anyone tell me the best way to get the back drivers side door on my 98 extended cab open? i have the door panel off and i have soaked everything i can find in penetrating oil. it seems like the bottom latch is what is hanging up. the whole door moves in and out a bit it is just like the bottom latch will not completely let go.

 

I don't know the solution off the top of my head, but it is a fairly common issue. Do a search here on DF in 2nd gen ram and I'm sure you'll find a thread with a solution.

 

Yeah, do the search as zman suggested. I have seen several threads on it also. Additionally, be careful with the cable that goes to the inside door handle. The plastic piece that fits into the notch like to break off easily. Costs about $35 to replace. I had to put one on driver side several weeks ago, and broke the one on pass side when installing new speaker on pass side last night.

 

Do you have two handles for the back doors? I've got a handle on the door and on the inside as well and I've managed to screw up the one on the inside, it doesn't release the latch anymore, there is no tension on the cable best I can tell. The handle on the door still works though.

 

The cable is the problem. Dodge part number 5527516. About $35.00. I tried to superglue, but no luck.

 

98 Ram 2500 ext cab 4x4
240k

I have the same issue with the extended cab doors; worked on it today here is what I found:
1.) door stuck - a block of wood and a mallet while holding the door handle with some force to open the door be careful to not bust your plastics
2.) remove inner door panel
3.) remove vent
4.) lube nuts inside door (get your 10mm ready)
5.) remove the 3 nuts (use your torx on the bottom if they spin)
6.) there is a gasket between the latch assembly and the bottom of the door, smack the assembly from inside the door cavity to break it free
7.) replace the assembly because these things suck

I took the assembly apart because I can fab most items in my shop, but these are just garbage. They have a coating on them to prevent corrosion that epically fails and causes the issue. The lock lever is froze solid due to the pivots being made from nylon. Once the nylon wears out its metal on metal seizure. Also to note the (3) bolts have blue thread locker on them (especially fun to remove) one bolt is the pivot for the lock mechanism; one bolt is the fulcrum for the actual latch; the last bolt helps hold the assembly together. Once removed you have to drill the grommets in each bolt hole to remove the cover. Allot of crap fell out. Heres a link to the pic, hope it helps:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1275873...7628165023689/

One pic has explicit details


As far as the door pin attached to the rocker panel, I simply sand blasted and repainted - its good as new.
Now to source the latch