I was set on an m1 intake or a hughes manifold but now after researching i found a confusing thread. 2bbl and 4bbl applications on a fuel injected vehicle? Adapter plates to put your throttle body on? upwards of 500 dollars! I want to do one and wonder what is the best option as researching just made me more unsure. seems 50/50. I want the best and EASIEST option to improve the general power band. this will be done with 1.7 rr's at the same time to granted. Im just curious how hard it is when youve never torn down your top end... especially on a daily driver. help is appreciated. thanks guys! and I think kegger mod isint quite an option for me at the time. i have hand tools not power tools. baddest tool i own is a tourqe wrench lol.

 

If your engine is close to stock or lightly modified(per your signature I would consider your engine lightly modified even with the 1.7 rockers) the Hughes would work better. If you had a performance cam, heads etc I would go with the M1. The M1 does come in either a 4 barrel or 2 barrel configurations. Both are made for the fuel injected engines. The four barrel is for highly modified engines that will be used on the drag strip or in a lighter vehicle, due to where it raises the powerband level to a non street friendly level. The 2 barrel is what I run in my heavy QC 4x4 truck and the power comes in at around 2500 rpm which matches my cam and heads (and gearing) pretty closely. My engine turns up so quickly I have noticed hardly any low end power loss. It is a lot stronger in the mid to high range with the M1 2 barrel. I have never ran the Hughes, but from what I hear on this forum it really works well with lightly modified engines. In order to get the most benefit from either manifold, the engine really needs to be tuned for it.

As far as installing the intake, it's not too hard. You will need a special tool for disconnecting the fuel line (about $7 at advance auto). Just keep track of what bolts go where, and it doesn't hurt to take pictures as you disassemble. (I would get a manual if you are not used to working on these engines). Make sure you are careful not to let anything fall into the engine. Once the intake is removed cover up the valley area to keep trash from getting into the engine as you clean the old gasket material off. After you clean all the gasket off, go behind it with brake cleaner and get any residue off the intake and engine. I would not use the end gaskets that come with the gasket set. Instead I would run a thick bead (close to 3/8") of "Right Stuff" gasket maker. Make sure you understand the torque method when you install the intake. You will need an inch pound torque wrench (harbor freight sells them for around $20). You will also have to remove the injectors and fuel rail from the old intake to the new one. Make sure you use new o rings on the injectors before installing.

If you decide to do this, please research and make sure you completely understand how to install the intake.

I hope I haven't confused you too much!!

 

no you didnt. that helped a lot actually. and i really misspelled my headline of the post haha. thats not too bad. i have a buddy with a 97 1500 5 spd 318 and graduated engine school. between him and a chiltons manual I have faith haha. Im only doing higher flow steel heads, mild rv cam, and maybe a few other internals along with the rockers so 2bbl sounds awesome for my application. I do have to ask though do you have a link or know a trustworthy place to get (decently priced). Luckily thats my last and only question. you helped a lot man. thanks a bunch! and the tools, i work at a parts place so I hope i could get 'em cheap lol.

 

how do u guys like your fast man TB?

 

This guy is a good guy to deal with: http://stores.hi-potek.com/-strse-EN...Categories.bok

He hangs out at bionicdodge.com and goes by 98Dak408. Get in touch with him and he may give you a better price than what you can get elsewhere. I bought my M1 used, and if you shop around you may be able to find one. Keep in mind that with the M1 you have to purchase the install kit and gasket kit, so price between the Hughes and the M1 is pretty close when you buy them new.

Good luck!!

 

Mines not actually a Fastman, but it is bored out completely to 52mm just like the fastman. I put it on the same time I did the engine rebuild with the new cam and heads, so I really don't know how much it helped! I do know that before when running the open element air cleaner I would get that annoying hiss from the intake that would sound like a leaking air hose as you gave it throttle and now all that is gone. It sounds more like the old 4-barrel carbs back in the good ole days!!

 

318 - gets a 50mm. 360 gets a 52mm. Great difference when paired with a decent intake and shorty headers. upper rpm's have a bit more power. im kinda stoked to try the roller rockers this spring everybody has. heard nothing but awesome feedback and power gains. Id reccomend it.