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-   -   About to install a set of Gibson Shorty's, any tips? (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-tech/311277-about-to-install-a-set-of-gibson-shortys-any-tips.html)

FC3S Murray Dec 1, 2011 06:58 PM

About to install a set of Gibson Shorty's, any tips?
 
I picked up a set for 160.00 so I figured what the heck. They are in great shape just the paint coating burned off. I have a powder coating machine at work so I am gonna coat them in HOTCOAT High Temp Silver.

I have researched and the install is said to be a bitch. The instructions say you have to remove the 2 exhaust studs in the head....this correct? I am basicaly looking for any tips from people who have installed them before. I am not worried about it being tough, I just know if I can avoid a headache, by all means fill me in :)

Gaskets with copper RTV or not?
Any particular gasket brand recommended?
Should I replace the y-pipe to header donut gasket too?

I have a 2001 1500 5.9L. Truck runs great and has little mods: Custom AEM intake, SCT hemifever 91 octane tune, Super 44 Flowmaster. I figured these would be nice snce they bolt right up. I had a chance at many cheap pacesetter shorties BUT I couldnt turn these down since they averaged a bit more in price used and seem better qaulity(guess there).

I also dont have any hardware(bolts) with the headers. Anyone know what 5/16'' thread pitch AND length bolt I should buy. The instructions I downloaded from Gibson's website said they came with 1" long 5/16" bolts....I think that would be too short given the 3/8" thick flange and washers on top of it all, doesnt leave much treads into the head.

Thanks for the help guys.....hope I feel a power difference. :icon_really:

dodgeram07 Dec 1, 2011 08:37 PM

well i havent pull headers on my truck but ive done them before,, i cant answers alot ur thoughts but

these trucks dont have donut gaskets,, i dont want a auto parts to rip u off

get sum pb blaster..ect and start hitting all the bolts and studs,,, i would do it every day for like a week,,,

do the pass side frist,,, more room and you will learn better

and beer and a good freind!!!!

J415 Dec 1, 2011 08:44 PM

Here's a link the a header install. There JBA's but still, it'll give you an idea.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...stall-diy.html
You might also want to look into safety wiring the bolts. Don't know what the is? Google it.

FC3S Murray Dec 1, 2011 09:23 PM


Originally Posted by J415 (Post 2657422)
Here's a link the a header install. There JBA's but still, it'll give you an idea.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...stall-diy.html
You might also want to look into safety wiring the bolts. Don't know what the is? Google it.

Thanks for the link.
As for the safety wire...:icon_crackup:I know what it is. I rebuild Pratt and Whitney F-100/220E Turbine engines for the F-15 for a living, I am VERY familiar with safety wire, most safety wire bolts cost an arm and a leg though.
Dont know what that engine is? Google it ;)


well i havent pull headers on my truck but ive done them before,, i cant answers alot ur thoughts but

these trucks dont have donut gaskets,, i dont want a auto parts to rip u off

get sum pb blaster..ect and start hitting all the bolts and studs,,, i would do it every day for like a week,,,

do the pass side frist,,, more room and you will learn better

and beer and a good freind!!!!
Thanks man for the post. Beer will be there for sure. I have some MOPAR rust penetrant so I will hit them tonight and until Sunday.

HeyYou Dec 1, 2011 10:31 PM

You should do something about the y-pipe while you are in there. That's where the big restriction is.

J415 Dec 1, 2011 11:24 PM


Originally Posted by FC3S Murray (Post 2657453)
Thanks for the link.
As for the safety wire...:icon_crackup:I know what it is. I rebuild Pratt and Whitney F-100/220E Turbine engines for the F-15 for a living, I am VERY familiar with safety wire, most safety wire bolts cost an arm and a leg though.
Dont know what that engine is? Google it ;).

No worries. I only mentioned that "google it" part because there are COUNTLESS newboo and non-newboo members that want you to grab there hand and walk them threw every step. Not because they can't do it, rather because there just lazy.
What about making a jig to make your own safety wire bolts? After all, they're not taking alot of tension. It's just to avoid having to re-torque every month.
The passenger side is really easy. The drivers side is a HUGE PITA.

merc225hp Dec 2, 2011 12:03 AM

I have a set of Gibson headers on my truck. Tip; you will need to grind down the box end of a 7/16 box wrench you will need this to get to four of the bolts(its to thick to fit between the pipe and bolt head). I pulled out the rad fan and the rad shroud and stood in there to work. When I install headers I remove the spark plugs and then put in old ones just in case I break one off. In the four years they have been on my truck I have never had a bolt back out or a gasket blow out. All of the hardware and gaskets are Gibson. I just had the headers off to do some head work and reused the gaskets and bolts and have zero leaks. I would go with Gibson gaskets and bolts, it's your choice in the end.

FC3S Murray Dec 2, 2011 07:26 AM


Originally Posted by HeyYou (Post 2657497)
You should do something about the y-pipe while you are in there. That's where the big restriction is.

I think I lucked out because my Y-pipe is 3" at the collector into the catalytic converter(single entry). I think the biggest restriction is the 2.5" piping after the cat.


No worries. I only mentioned that "google it" part because there are COUNTLESS newboo and non-newboo members that want you to grab there hand and walk them threw every step. Not because they can't do it, rather because there just lazy.
What about making a jig to make your own safety wire bolts? After all, they're not taking alot of tension. It's just to avoid having to re-torque every month.
The passenger side is really easy. The drivers side is a HUGE PITA.
No offense taken on your comment bud. I have considered a safety wire jig but they are pricey too and the colbalt drill bits are really expensive. I may look in my works bench stock for some 5/6'' -18 x 1'' L bolts that are already 12 point.


I have a set of Gibson headers on my truck. Tip; you will need to grind down the box end of a 7/16 box wrench you will need this to get to four of the bolts(its to thick to fit between the pipe and bolt head). I pulled out the rad fan and the rad shroud and stood in there to work. When I install headers I remove the spark plugs and then put in old ones just in case I break one off. In the four years they have been on my truck I have never had a bolt back out or a gasket blow out. All of the hardware and gaskets are Gibson. I just had the headers off to do some head work and reused the gaskets and bolts and have zero leaks. I would go with Gibson gaskets and bolts, it's your choice in the end.
Good to know and thanks for the tips.

Augiedoggy Dec 2, 2011 08:38 AM


Originally Posted by HeyYou (Post 2657497)
You should do something about the y-pipe while you are in there. That's where the big restriction is.

My headers both feed directly to two inputs on my cat? does the 96 not have a y pipe or do I not have a stock cat?

HeyYou Dec 2, 2011 09:54 AM


Originally Posted by Augiedoggy (Post 2657723)
My headers both feed directly to two inputs on my cat? does the 96 not have a y pipe or do I not have a stock cat?

Yeah, that's the stock setup, where those two pipes squeeze into the cat is where the major restriction is at. Magnaflow makes a direct fit high flow cat that is far superior to the stock system, they also make a 'universal fit' dual inlet cat that uses the stock downpipes, but, doesn't have the major restriction at the inlet to the cat. yet a third option is an off-road y-pipe, that doesn't have a cat at all...... if you want/have to have one, get a maganaflow 3" SI/SO cat, and splice it into the pipe. That would be the best flowing solution. (of course, probably the most expensive too.....)


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