i think the leak it had was in the low pressure valve , because it had a lot of dirt in it and no cap on it either .

 

so i added a recharge kit and that came with a stop leak kit also and every thing looks good and we are blowing ICE cold

 

Let it run a couple days and see if it stays up. Also might want to cap those ports!

Glad it works now!

 

ok well the AC has been blowing cold and working fine for a while now until the last few days where it will cycle fine at idle and low rpm, but the second you rev the engine a little, the compressor shuts off and will not turn back on. if i let the truck sit for a few hours then it starts working again.


kinda lost in what to look for on replacing

 

sounds like you're in the same boat I'm in. mine was doing same thing, but I didn't have a faulty valve. charged it up, ran fine for a day. now back to square 1 again which means there's a leak in the system somewhere...I'm guessing its the A/C line between the compressor and the dryer since it got bumped quite a few times and had to be bent to get it out of the way of the way for the twin install.

gonna end up taking it to a shop anyway just to verify my theory.

 

Inside under the dash....evap core that zman mentioned is probably the culprit.

 

mine is 100% charged and full checked that again. it has something to do with the low pressure switch or the compressor clutch.

i put a gauge on it and idling its cycles and everything checks out ok then i rev the engine and the compressor clutch disengages .

i have a low pressure switch coming and a clutch switch, i guess ill see what fixes what

 

I have the exact opposite problem. When I am at 1k plus rpm it cools great. When I am at idle or in stop and go traffic it doesn't cool well at all. You can feel the air is cool but not as cold. Any thoughts?

 

that's just by design.

at idle it wont cool as well because for one the compressor isn't turning as fast, and two you aren't pulling in as much air through the hot side's coils to cool the hot side down, which in turn makes the cold side warmer...the cooler you can get the hot side, the cooler the cold side will be.

if your not cooling at 1200-2000rpm that's when you have a problem...

should also check your pressures just in case with a charge kit.

PSI of the low side should be within certain ranges at certain ambient temps while the compressor is running.

 

ok well here is what has been done yesterday and today,


i took the truck in because it had a small crack in the Low psi line, so we replaced that and the low pressure switch on the line and the Compressor cycle switch and the AC relay and the shop filled and charged the system .

today im driving (its 90 out) have the ac on and the damn compressor shuts off . i shut off the truck let it sit and cool for 15-20 min start it and the AC cycles and blows cold . but as soon as rpms go up over 2k the compressor shuts off . i did notice that the relay gets really warm/hot but that could be normal

right now im lost on what else can be wrong with this thing