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Wipers and Hi/Low Beam Lights

Old May 3, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Default Wipers and Hi/Low Beam Lights

Hello guys, I have searched and searched and I have yet to find a good clear direction to trouble shoot my problem. My problem is that my windshield wipers only work on the fast and really fast setting the delay doesn't work. Also my headlights switch from low to high beam but then to get back to low beam, I have to switch it once (where I should be back to low beam) all my headlights go out, then I switch it again and my high beams come back on, and finally once last switch and I get back to low beam. Hopefully that wasn't too confusing!
Any info or help would be greatly appreciated.

Just a random question on the side, does a tuner help a manual transmission much?
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:08 PM
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You can search for a thread on the wipers, i remember there being a thread on that exact problem a couple weeks ago. But basically it was the wiper motor that was going bad. My friend had the problem and tossed a new motor in and it worked again.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:23 PM
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Yes a tuner will make a difference
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mibzzer15
You can search for a thread on the wipers, i remember there being a thread on that exact problem a couple weeks ago. But basically it was the wiper motor that was going bad. My friend had the problem and tossed a new motor in and it worked again.
A motor would make sense, but do you think that these problems are connected cause they use the same switch sort of?
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 01:35 AM
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Pull apart your multi function switch. I know when my friend (same friend with the wiper motor problem) had a problem with his hi beams not working, he pulled apart the switch cover and found a wire (I believe it was the purple wire) was cut/frayed. Re-wired it and it worked perfectly...You may have a wire or two that are bad in there so that *could* be causing the problem. Wouldn't hurt to pull it apart just make sure you have a torx set with the pin in the middle, because the screws are these types with the security pin in the middle, http://joecarr.files.wordpress.com/2...funnyscrew.jpg
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:13 AM
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Also might want to remove the knee panel below the steering column and check the condition of the wiring comng from the column.
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 12:50 AM
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Took the knee pad off to see the wires coming from the column and everything looked normal there. I haven't taken the plastic off around the steering wheel yet because of the torque screw with the middle pin, need to find one of those somewhere, or if anyone has any other ideas how to get it out? Also it looked like there was some torque screws which I need about a 2 inch key to get them out and my set is only about 3/4" long. I'd hate to bring it to a tech just to loosen some bolts.
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 07:23 AM
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They are called security torx. Most parts stores have them.
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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autozone has the security torx kit for $10.

search my old threads for wiper delay for important info regarding the delay control, the CTM, and the seemingly unrelated fuse number ? for power windows or doors which in NOT unrelated.

you should test for voltage at the wiper relay or wiper motor to determine if your switches and controls are working. start at the relays in the pdc, as its easy to get to. there is a high speed and low speed circuit and when commanded to be on, you should get voltage to the relay. when the relay is installed, you can hear it click on, and with the relay removed, you can test for voltage.

be aware that when the wipers are operating on delay mode, the CTM is simply pulsing the low speed wiper circuit. so at the motor - either the low speed and high speeds both work, or they don't. don't unnecessarily blame the wiper motor if its already working right.

but, the fact that your headlight high/low beam doesn't switch correctly also points to the multifunction switch, which also contains the wiper delay switch. there is a cool procedure to test all that in the haynes manual and 01 service manual, but you have to remove the switch to test. it can be replaced at a reasonable cost, mine was about $50 at autozone a few years ago.
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 11:11 AM
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thanks dhvaughan, I will do some testing this afternoon!
 
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