MODERATORS: I'm a Newb and this may be in the wrong section. Please move to correct forum if needed.

Alrighty folks. I have corrected this issue and I'm making this post to help anyone in my position about 2 months ago ready to pull their hair out because of the puddle sitting in front of the passenger seat. Some notice that it only happens when it's raining which could be indicative of another problem, but for the low cost, this is worth a shot. The rain is increasing the humidity and therefore the amount of water a cold a/c system is producing via condensation which is why you may only notice it when it rains. Or your problem could be like mine was where the floor is always wet to some degree, but gets MUCH worse when it rains.

I had water leaking into the cabin from under the passenger side dash for a long time. A Google search delivered me to a forum thread suggesting I take a look for a clogged up drain. I'm not sure where I found this thread, and I can't find anything related on a forum search here, but anyway... I checked that and the drain was clear of obstructions but still it was leaking water in the cab. Frustration lead to frustration. I even tried hooking an industrial shopvac to the drain and sucking it clean of pretty much anything. I'm kinda sure I might have even created a small black hole inside the blower housing with all the negative pressure that vac was creating. But still... no dice and lots of water.

The drain is the whole problem come to find out. It protrudes about 1 inch out on the passenger side of the fire wall behind the accumulator. Someone at the Dodge design house needs to be shot over this one because, like I mentioned, it sticks out only about 1 inch and it is horizontal and parallel to the ground. Anyone that owns a 2nd Generation Ram knows how roomy that engine compartment is. And when you're driving down the highway, or main roads, there's a lot of air moving around in there. I'd even go so far as to say the pressure increases inside the engine compartment to about 1.1 atmospheres. As a result, that tiny little drain bears the brunt of a lot of air pressure and blows what water is trying to drain out back into the system.

So here's your fix:

Go to a auto parts store of your choice and ask for about 6 inches of 1/2" hose. Doesn't have to be heat resistant or anything, just some plain old rubber hose. It will take some effort and some working, but push one end of the hose on to that pesky undersized, ill-placed drain. Take the other end and run it downward. The chunk I got was long enough to reach the frame of the pickup.

Now you've reversed the pressure effect on that drain. Instead of an overpressure pushing the draining water back into the system, the end of that hose is at a 90 degree angle to the passing air beneath the truck. This creates a vacuum effect and encourages the water to drain out of the system. I've included pics (below) so that you can see what the final product looks like.

Does it work? Yes. My carpet was dry in 2 days. The system doesn't gurgle anymore, and (finally) there's a wetspot (on the ground) under the truck on humid days. I hope this solution helps someone somewhere. I know I spent like 3 months trying to find a fix for it.

Total Cost: $1.25 Total Time: 10 minutes... if you can't find the drain pipe right off.

 

Good tip. I have to admit that the title of the thread immediately made me think....your heater core is broke dead.

Maybe HeyYou could modify the title a bit to show that this is a Tip on resolving drain back issue or something?

 

Thanks I appreciate it! I may not be a mechanical genious, but I will try everything I can to help people. Truth be told I'm afraid I'm going to be more of a helpee than a helper. I have a lot of things I want to do with my pickup and so little folding cash to do it with. LOL

 

This a problem I encountered with 91 on up Chevy's when working at a dealership. When this happened to me in my 98 I knew what to do, as well as my 99 I have now. Once I ruled out heater core (lack of coolant smell) I was able to fix it. All I did though was put an elbow style rubber grommet on it. Like a boot off a spark plug wire, though that would take a little stretching to fit around that drain spout. The problem is that build up in there along with wind force mostly at 45+ does not allow the evap case to drain. The bulletin for the Chevy's was to use an old plug wire boot.

 

That seems like it would work too! I'm not a mechanic, just a weekend hobbyist... but seems like the spark plug boot would work just as well. Thanks!

 

I only knew that trick thanks to the Chevy dealership I worked at.

 

Re sealing with silicone around that 1" nipple where it comes out the firewall is also a good idea.

 

+1 on what zman said, I'm going to throw a little goop around mine for added protection. I did the heater core(factory!no swivels), new dash, new dash frame(plastic) about 2 months ago & never realized until 2 days ago that my drain didn't have a spark plug boot/ drain hose on it either.. it does now. I do like the silicone addition because that black foam material disentegrates.. er however you spell that, on even looking at the stuff. Cheers

 

Common Problem with Ford Taurus. Talked to people that spent hundreds for dealership to remove dash to replace foam around drain, only to have it happen again. If the drain isn't properly routed, why replace the foam around it? Silicone, like zman mentioned works perfectly. Some engineers need to be hit in the throat with a wrench.

 

I spent 14.99 at Auto zone for Dayton hose part number B87603, cut away 2 inches from the end, lubricated it with vaseline, and slid it onto the protruding pipe, and tightened it down with a 3/4 inch hose clamp. The downspout rests comfortably against the tranny bellhouse and drains to the front of the back A frame bushing. Hopefully no more minnow pond in the passenger floor.