^^^ Screw the 60 rear, if were talkin' modded diesels, go straight for an 80!!!

 

I love diesel motors and am familiar with the different years' of 6bt's... After doing some research a p-pump or even a VE pumped 6bt wouldn't be too bad.. I would probably try find a 47 before switching to a manual 4500(which I would enjoy more, but just not the $$$ involved)

But at the same time I am more interested in mpg with my 1500 than power... I have an '06 common rail cummins to pull my trailer

This is more for a 50+ mile/day daily driver

 

hahaha now we're pullin out all stops i see...80 rear and a p pumped 12 valve with a larger turbo and some engine work...now you've got yourself not only a tow rig but also a truck pull monster

i'm a little drunk so i hope that made sense. hahahah

 

Ahh knowing that you have an 06 cummins, then go for the 4bt. It will be different! I'd probably do the same thing for a fuel saver.


Travis

 

The things I would do if I was loaded $$$

 

Well, this had been something I was going back and forth on since I'm facing an engine replacement soon. I love diesel power and making my own fuel but the problems I see are that the 4BT is mighty expensive for what it is IMO. They are almost a grand more than a used VE pumped 6bt. You get less power, but the trade off is that you can keep stock axles and maybe transmission, but the truck can handle the weight as it's only about 150 pounds heavier than a 360 gas. On the other hand, the 6bt is several hundred pounds heavier and in my case, that means rehabbing the front suspension completely and all new U-joints, possibly a new rear axle, and that's just getting too costly for a "budget" motor swap, then you have the decision of going I/C vs. Non-I/C, and if you choose to intercool what you will use to do it and getting different core support etc etc etc. The other issue I have is making the factory speedo and sensors all work. There are ways around this but it requires machining timing marks and other methods that I don't have knowledge or equipment of.

 

But it is possible nonetheless. On www.competitiondiesel.com they have a section dedicated to engine swaps, and there are quite a few half ton diesel swaps. They have lots of useful info to research as well.

 

definitely go for dana 60 front, and dana 80 rear. dana 60 rear wouldn't stand a chance against a 6bt cummins... my truck came factory with a dana 80 if that tells you anything...smallest rear a cummins in a 2nd gen came with was a dana 70. and dana 70's are known to explode when you turn up a cummins to 400hp+ (mine would have exploded long ago if it wasn't a D80) definitely no dana 60's behind a cummins.. even at factory HP the torque they make will mangle a D60 rear if you towed anything. Do it right the first time so you don't end up pouring extra money into it.

best way to do a 6bt swap is buy a wrecked 2nd gen (preferably one that's been t-boned) and swap the motor, computer, intercooler, turbo, radiator, front axle and suspension, rear axle (if its not damaged from a wreck) drive lines, t-case, trans, etc...be the cheapest way to do a swap.. or find one that's rusted to hell and beat up, buy it for cheap, and swap all the good parts over. donor vehicle is going to be the cheapest way to do it, then scrap whats left.

 

Some of the same issues I have been reading about.. Its seems as I will be unlikely to keep the 46re thats currently in it, which will definitely make the build out of the budget

I have been looking, and no one was kidding about the 4bt being a hard find

 

At this rate I would be better off putting my 360 back together. Selling it for a loss and just finiding a cheap 2500 with the cummins from the factory...

Again, there will be very minimal towing, no racing or hard driving. Engine will stay stock...

I have a CR to satisfy all my power needs