The Tstat is the thermostat which is inside the coolant port where the top radiator hose attaches to the block. That is a coolant temperature sensor-CTS. The "thermostatic" in the description simply denotes it is temperature sensitive.

 

(aka) coolant temperature switch.

 

The term thermostatic can refer to both the mechanical T-stat and the unit I posted. They are both temperature sensitive correct? Why split hairs? If someone wants to control an electric fan easily using fluid temperatures, that unit is fast and easy. Does it matter if I call it a T-stat and you call it a switch?

 

I used these parts
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=1838711

and

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...326161_9583_0_

The controller is easy enough, I used the splitter to tie into my fuse box for the ignition switch, the ground is on the body to the truck, a positive to the battery I left the green wirs off, but I can run it to a manual switch incase the temp switch ever quits. The temp probe went into the radiator fins on the top right, then silcone in place. I think I got 2x14 inch fans.

What is a CTS? (never mind answered)

I had a heat gun and shot the radiator at the top right and set the fans to come on at 190* and shut off at around 170*. The fans shut off at about 25 mph and I ran a red led light to the cab so I know when they are on.

 

This isnt ment to cause a heated discussion, all sorts of claims are made about mpg improvements. Most of them can be argued from CAI to Tires to Sparkplugs and headers. Taking the fan and cluch out can not be argued, its less drain on the engine. Its not even a discussion it will improve your mpg

 

No heated discussion. I have turned a wrench personally and professionally for 30+ years and never heard of anything but the "thermostatic on/off valve" in the coolant line referred to as a "t-stat", so I had no idea whatsoever what wires on the t-stat meant.

 

So that answers both those questions. No coolant temp sensor, you used an external switch on the exterior of the radiator(do I have that right?) and there is a lead that comes off the "probe" that starts the fan.

 

The switch its self can be located any where, the probe goes into the radiator fins. I put the switch on top of the under hood fuse box to keep it up away from water. But yeah you get the idea. I will try to find the relay directions.

 

anything that reduces parasitic loss is going to improve economy and power at the same time.. the closer to the crank, the better..

rocker rollers, for instance.. it's unclear to me where the bump in power comes from... the additional lift and slightly longer duration, or the actual rolling the lifters instead of prying.. Most would argue the lift/duration- but my guess is the loss of friction actually offsets the added fuel the lift requires, and makes it even out..

the lifters themselves on a magnum engine help.. it's an upgrade from the older LA's, which ran flat tappet cams.. that is less friction, right where the engine is trying to produce power..

synthetic oils.. maintain viscosity and their lubrication properties better than dino oil.. that helps, however minutely..

I agree, though, that the single easiest place to remove parasitic loss is the clutch fan.. the reason is this: the engine is most vulnerable off idle, and the fan requires a good portion of the power to turn.. when the engine pushes over 1k rpm, or maybe 1.2k rpm, the differences is minimal.. that 'off the line' in traffic can't be taken slightly, though.. the power is there right where you need the bump (off idle) and it's easier on the engine to spool up without it..

 

http://www.compressorworks.com/Instr...N%20733647.pdf

Instructions for the harness