I thought this sounded like my problem (shake shake) right off idle from a stop.. I'm wondering if it is the same problem or not. I've been chasing this ghost shake all through the engine and tyranny..

Seems to be right form stop or coming to a stop though low speed/RPM; Lower the RPM the more noticeable. after 1K seems its not noticeable. I had the idle about 800 and could still feel the shake shake from a stop.

Let us know if you get it fixed

 

Yes, the rt ft brake hose did make a significant difference.I believe that was the problem, at least 90% of the problem. The Rotor temp was off 20degF from each other so im turning the new calipers in for warranty. The rt was getting pretty hot through all of this.(checked the pin grease it was turning yellowish brown) New the grease was clearish white. I always check the pin grease on reman calipers. Ive replaced to many calipers with remans only to find the factory forgot the grease(or rubber insert)
I have tested the booster for proper operation and adjustment, as well as the MC. The hot caliper was only the rt one, the left grease was still ok. Hopefully the temps will be more even. The drum temps were within 1degF of each other. Then given the line setup dodge used it will be interesting to see.

Jondakotaguy, ru talking about the chug chug feeling just letting off the brake. If you are then that is a different issue, although mine does that too. It is usually a issue with the engine not with anything else. Not to say anthing is really wrong,just that as the vehicles age the operating system and the engine wear and become less efficient. This can cause different running conditions at idle and just off idle when vac is going from high to low. If it concerns you make sure the engine and operating system are in good shape. (A small vacuum leak as a example can cause it)

 

Yes Shake shake right off idle.. as I described like a slight miss... I've plugged everything and it was still present.. so It's got to be internal.

I was down to Plenum even though it tested good; Something weird with the timing; either chain/gear, Dist. but wife's Jeep 4.0 does it too slightly but it has no dist., or plenum.. so I'm ruling those out. I really don't think its a vac leak being the wife's does not have a plenum and I no leaks on her's at all... disconnect all lines as well and same problem there.. so I kinda ruled that out.

Thanks for the insight. It's something I've just come to live with and hope one day i find a solution; but I'm afraid it's going to cause me to sell it and go back and buy me a Ford Bronco. Late 70's to late 80's model, once this truck is paid off in November.

 

You can't diagnose your truck going off what a Jeep 4.0 is doing.

 

I do not see why not; how they work are the same; just like trying to diagnose a dodge motor off what a chevy or ford is doing. How they work are identical. Just differences in design vary. even how they are built.. and how they work more or less. Minus certain key design differences; such as coil packs vs. dist. Solid one piece intake manifold; and so on.. esp. being they are both doing same thing; there is something common between the Chrysler products

 

Well, with anything you have to choose the fights worth fighting. When I worked for Chrysler, I was the new car prep guy for about two months. It involved getting the new cars ready for the lot as they came off the truck and believe it or not, there was always 1 or 2 vehicles across the model line that would do the chug chug. Of course, by the end of the test drive most of them had cleared out, if not they then went through service.
I mention this just as an example that even new cars can do the same thing, given something within the system is unbalanced. I had a 96 grand cherokee with the 4.0 and it would do it cold only.
If you want to chase it down, a vacuum gage used at the manifold can be an invaluable resource for checking engine condition. You can find guage reading results online as well as test procedures. It can tell you the condition of the engine overall as well as valves, rings, ect. You can check the chain and gearing by removing the dist cap and turn the crank manually and watch for the rotor to turn. Turn it in the direction of rotation to take up the slack then back the other direction until the rotor turns. Tolerance checked it degrees. Besides that, the best way to tell is using an engine analyzer with an exhaust gas probe. However, that involves taking it to a shop that is such equipped and being able to read the printout.
My Ram also does it very cold but is gone very quick. It was worse when a vac line was cracked. It developed the OD buck and the chug chug.
As for the no roll issue I changed out the Calipers and there was no change. It still seems to be a problem. I think i may drive another truck with approx the same config to see how it is. Could be the mc, The brake release seems positive most of the time but sometime not. Also the pedal feels horrible(slightly squishy and vague) The brakes begin to apply right from the top of the pedal. Its been bled multiple times, so im begining to wonder if this is not a system typical symptom.
I will update any results or findings.
PS. Jon if you want to get rid of that truck PM me, I may be interested.

 

I've seen that chug chug problem discussed across many forums; every one of them never had a resolution.. thread just died; I assume owners just gave up.. Heard that dealers could not even find the problem.

mine never goes away.. no matter the engine temp.. some times it would seem less noticeable; one point i made some adjustments to rockers and though I cleared the problem but turns out it was not the case.. rockers are still the same as they were the day we adjusted them

I'm planning on diving into my engine with my brother at some point for the plenum and timing gear set. dunno when.. Right now the plenum is not leaking.. I'm pretty sure on that.

But as with the nature that's just a matter of time. I swear i hear something under the truck in the same rhythm of the shake shake.. sounds like something physical; I really wanna pull the cover off so i can look up into the bell house and see if there are loose bolts or something that causing it..

 

Im still not sure we are talking about the same thing. It very difficult sometime to discuss problems when you cant be there to see, hear , or feel the issue.
The best thing to do is to gather information, then you can make at least a educated guess. Which means test,test,and more tests. In the shop we had no problem fixing the chug chug. However, we had a sun pro engine analyzer to use. That was the primary tool for this not a drb 3 scanner. If you dont have one then start with the basics (engine compression) and work your way up. Your issue could be really simple (vac leak(hose), or one causing slightly low compression in one cylinder(manifold,plenum), or something starting to go wacky(dirty injector,plug wire,tps,iac,map ect.)

Just do everything you can and try to keep things simple(sensor wiggle tap test). In the shop it was against policy to throw parts or "burn" parts on a car. So i learned to find the problem first. The big problem is when you dont have the test equiptment to check things. That is why i suggested to take it somewhere to be analyzed for a low idle miss. They will give you a printout of the readings.(Just make sure they have the ability to print readings and are willing to do so.) If not RUN they are going to try to rip you off. Cost usually should be $50 and up. (cheaper than a bunch of test equiptment.) If you want to invest in the equiptment by all means do so. I have had my equiptment pay for itself many times over even with my own vehicles.

About the noise, most likely the shake shake is causing the noise not the other way around. If you feel the need to look go ahead, cant hurt anything. You could also get a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint the noise. There is not much in there and if the bolts were loose it would be most likely making quite a racket not just off idle. I have heard of timing chain slap on to the cover(Could be related), but you would need to verify the location of the noise. Or maybe you are hearing valvetrain noise in the exhaust(rythm of the engine)

About the No roll issue, there definetly feels as though something else not right. The brake pedal feels as though there is a three stage braking system on this truck(haha). I will be throwing a MC at it today to hopefully help the pedal feel. I know jon i just said not to throw parts at it, but i dont have much choice in this case. ($38 bet). So we shall see how lucky i am.

 

Just a Update,
Replaced the Master Cylinder with positive results. Much Better pedal feel and performance out of the brakes, and a more positive release. Still have a issue with idle roll warm. Will be checking into other things, coverter and drivetrain. Stall test on converter was 2306 rpm and within 4sec 2370 rpm. Converter could still be a issue. Will update further.

 

Update,
Trans/converter, checked out ok. Seems the slight no roll i have now is just normal (age related, 135k) performance. Thanks to everyone who responded.