Rear diff Yoke.
u-bolt straps or round rear flange - either one, doesn't matter. unless you intend to change the pinion seal or do some kind of major rebuild, don't remove the yoke. just drill out the broken pieces. save the threads.
if you do decide to remove the yoke, that nut's torque to about 250 pounds.
MARK the relationship of the nut to the shaft. spin it off with an impact wrench. reinstall to same point and check rotational resistance with 1/4 beam style torque wrench. pinion bearing preload must be correct.
if you do decide to remove the yoke, that nut's torque to about 250 pounds.
MARK the relationship of the nut to the shaft. spin it off with an impact wrench. reinstall to same point and check rotational resistance with 1/4 beam style torque wrench. pinion bearing preload must be correct.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Sep 16, 2012 at 08:35 PM.
u-bolt straps or round rear flange - either one, doesn't matter. unless you intend to change the pinion seal or do some kind of major rebuild, don't remove the yoke. just drill out the broken pieces. save the threads.
if you do decide to remove the yoke, that nut's torque to about 250 pounds.
MARK the relationship of the nut to the shaft. spin it off with an impact wrench. reinstall to same point and check rotational resistance with 1/4 beam style torque wrench. pinion bearing preload must be correct.
if you do decide to remove the yoke, that nut's torque to about 250 pounds.
MARK the relationship of the nut to the shaft. spin it off with an impact wrench. reinstall to same point and check rotational resistance with 1/4 beam style torque wrench. pinion bearing preload must be correct.
That's why I would not remove the yoke. Why risk jacking up the diff?
ok i tried using a breaker bar and a idk about 6 foot pipe and i cant get it to move at all. all it does is tilt the axel and move the truck backwards. i dont reall have the ability to use an impact gun. and we tried to drill it out and the drill bit broke off inside of it making a pilot hole and every bit broke after that so i kinda have to atleast take it off and drill it from the back side unless you guys have another way of doing it?
well the drive shaft has four bolts holding it to the axel which you have to take out and drop the rear end of the axel to pull it from the transfer case. i just needed to know what to get. i appreciate the help but if your going to be a dick then just dont post theres plenty of people here that know just as much as you i'm pretty sure
Well they arent being dicks.. They are pointing out the fact that you have multiple threads going on about the same thing and that can be confusing.. Just ask it all in one thread.. The rear on the truck is the 9.25...
If you have a welder you can try to weld another bolt to the broken one. The heat will help it break free and the bolt will give you something to grab.
Just dont weld it to the yoke or it defeats the purpose and causes more work.
Just dont weld it to the yoke or it defeats the purpose and causes more work.



