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Rear diff Yoke.

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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:33 PM
  #21  
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dhvaughan
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u-bolt straps or round rear flange - either one, doesn't matter. unless you intend to change the pinion seal or do some kind of major rebuild, don't remove the yoke. just drill out the broken pieces. save the threads.

if you do decide to remove the yoke, that nut's torque to about 250 pounds.

MARK the relationship of the nut to the shaft. spin it off with an impact wrench. reinstall to same point and check rotational resistance with 1/4 beam style torque wrench. pinion bearing preload must be correct.
 

Last edited by dhvaughan; Sep 16, 2012 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:37 PM
  #22  
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drill out the centers, apply heat with plumbers torch. use an ease-out.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:39 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
u-bolt straps or round rear flange - either one, doesn't matter. unless you intend to change the pinion seal or do some kind of major rebuild, don't remove the yoke. just drill out the broken pieces. save the threads.

if you do decide to remove the yoke, that nut's torque to about 250 pounds.

MARK the relationship of the nut to the shaft. spin it off with an impact wrench. reinstall to same point and check rotational resistance with 1/4 beam style torque wrench. pinion bearing preload must be correct.

That's why I would not remove the yoke. Why risk jacking up the diff?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #24  
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ok i tried using a breaker bar and a idk about 6 foot pipe and i cant get it to move at all. all it does is tilt the axel and move the truck backwards. i dont reall have the ability to use an impact gun. and we tried to drill it out and the drill bit broke off inside of it making a pilot hole and every bit broke after that so i kinda have to atleast take it off and drill it from the back side unless you guys have another way of doing it?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:43 PM
  #25  
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Maybe a picture would help us to see what you are working with.. Pulling the yoke off would be a last resort for me
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #26  
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well the drive shaft has four bolts holding it to the axel which you have to take out and drop the rear end of the axel to pull it from the transfer case. i just needed to know what to get. i appreciate the help but if your going to be a dick then just dont post theres plenty of people here that know just as much as you i'm pretty sure
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #27  
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ok will post pictures tomorrow after work. any idea how many splines it would be and is it a dana 44? not really sure if i'm looking at the right stuff
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:55 PM
  #28  
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Well they arent being dicks.. They are pointing out the fact that you have multiple threads going on about the same thing and that can be confusing.. Just ask it all in one thread.. The rear on the truck is the 9.25...
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:55 PM
  #29  
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we tried that and they didnt budge a bit
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:57 PM
  #30  
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If you have a welder you can try to weld another bolt to the broken one. The heat will help it break free and the bolt will give you something to grab.

Just dont weld it to the yoke or it defeats the purpose and causes more work.
 
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