Lower control arm bushings
So i had to save the lower control arms off my old axle and ofcoarse taking them off turned into a couple hour process without torches ha. I did have a burnz o matic hand torch thing which helped. I did get them off but the way i got them out it pulled the rubber bushings out of the control arm. All i need to know is if i go buy lower control arm bushings, does the bushing just consist of that rubber bushing itself and that sleeve in the middle of it or is there a metal braket around the bushing that needs to come out as well?
Yeah , old thread , but I figured if I got it searching , someone else might too . Little late to help the OP , but , someone else might get some use from it .
I'm about to tackle this job today . Ironically , they are the same exact bushings I use on my jeeps , and , have 4 new ones kickin about .
. My truck has only 46k , but , these bushings are cracked up and soft from age , needing replacement . 19 years plays hard on a rubber bushing . I'll just order 4 new uppers later . They look about the same .
Ive been doing these for years on jeeps , it's one of the first things I replace . The process is quite simple , provided rust isn't an issue . It requires just 2 tools once off the truck . A block of wood , and a hammer . 30oz range works fine .
I did this video a few years ago , the arms are from a Jeep but same principles . I've done them with presses and this is just too easy not to keep doing this way .
Removal
http://vid347.photobucket.com/albums...n/MOV05125.mp4
Install
http://vid347.photobucket.com/albums...n/MOV05126.mp4
I've only tack welded one set out of many , I don't feel it's needed . I've got 70k on one set w/o issue .
It's a huge improvement on every set I do on a jeep . After seeing the condition of mine on the truck , I do expect it to remove some noted handling defects so to speak .
I will be getting a fresh alignment done , mostly because I measured the toe , and it's not in , it's literally toe-out . Almost 3/8's too . For now , I will try just marking the castor where it is , and adjusting the tow-in to my specs of 1/32-3/32 . See how it goes after that . I do my own with decent success but nothing replaces a computer alignment . It is recommended after this lower control arm bushing replacement job , especially if you like your tires .
I'm about to tackle this job today . Ironically , they are the same exact bushings I use on my jeeps , and , have 4 new ones kickin about .
. My truck has only 46k , but , these bushings are cracked up and soft from age , needing replacement . 19 years plays hard on a rubber bushing . I'll just order 4 new uppers later . They look about the same . Ive been doing these for years on jeeps , it's one of the first things I replace . The process is quite simple , provided rust isn't an issue . It requires just 2 tools once off the truck . A block of wood , and a hammer . 30oz range works fine .
I did this video a few years ago , the arms are from a Jeep but same principles . I've done them with presses and this is just too easy not to keep doing this way .
Removal
http://vid347.photobucket.com/albums...n/MOV05125.mp4
Install
http://vid347.photobucket.com/albums...n/MOV05126.mp4
I've only tack welded one set out of many , I don't feel it's needed . I've got 70k on one set w/o issue .
It's a huge improvement on every set I do on a jeep . After seeing the condition of mine on the truck , I do expect it to remove some noted handling defects so to speak .
I will be getting a fresh alignment done , mostly because I measured the toe , and it's not in , it's literally toe-out . Almost 3/8's too . For now , I will try just marking the castor where it is , and adjusting the tow-in to my specs of 1/32-3/32 . See how it goes after that . I do my own with decent success but nothing replaces a computer alignment . It is recommended after this lower control arm bushing replacement job , especially if you like your tires .




