Anyone?

 

you're asking a question that is confusing- even to fellas pretty knowledgeable in these matters..

asked like this: "does a 'stat rated at 195* START opening @ 195* or is it fully open then?" is likely where folks are hanging up.. short answer, from my perspective, is: I don't know.. It could be argued that the 'stat should be fully open at it's rated temperature- and that is what I figure..

those elements aren't known for their precision..

I'm thinking you should 'draw again', and buy another 'stat... sounds like the one that doesn't fully open until 210* is faulty, by my figuring..

 

See what happens when you don't take science class in high school?

 

i'd call that a bad tstat. my past tests with a tstat in a pot of water on the stove show a 195 stat cracks open at 185-190 and is wide open at 195.

i recommend a stant superstat for about $15. much more material and quality than the $5 cheapo.

 

I would, too. The thermostat should be fully open at the rated temperature.

 

well I stand to be corrected here, as I am no stat anorak, but in my opinion, all stats will have a tolerance of +/- 10% or so, I believe that a 195 stat is designed to maintain engine temp at 195, thus in an ideal world would be half open at this temperature, that way it can open more if the motor is working harder and creating more heat, or close a little on a cold day while say running on the freeway with no load, it needs to have scope in both directions to control the motor temp in different enviroments

my personal opinion you stat is a little high in its range, I guess it depends what the climate and ambient temp is at your location, if you are somewhere hot, I would change that stat, if you are somewhere cold, it will most likely be fine, but hey, they are not to expensive, at least its a lot closer to spec than the new one I bought !

 

Well I live in Austin, TX and the weather is hot but the only real reason why I want to change it out is because I need to fix a small leak coming from the water nec and I guess because I noticed it that it takes a while to warm up even on hot days. I figured get it all done, but I just bought a stant from NAPA and it wont open fully until 210F again. Maybe my gauge is wrong BUT it shows 212f when it starts to boil so it cant be that far off. I also noticed that on the stat it says 195F/90C...well techincally its opening at 95C. I just dont know, Im thinking of just saying screw it and getting a 180F to just see when it opens and if its around 195F ill drop that in. Thoughts?

 

i went through hella issues when i last swapped stats.. it's my observation that at least 3 out of 5 are bad out of the box.. i'm not talking cheapo's either- I purchased a barrel style stat that ran $25, and it was faulty too... so was the next one that replaced it.. one of them opened around 210 (just before roaring boil) and never closed again- it was rated @ 180, and it was the $25 job...

I'm out on a limb when I say this, because it isn't something I've ever experimented with, but it's my gut feeling that stats simply aren't that consistent.. they are (in my opinion) rated in a window, not with precision.. this is the cause of my temperature fluctuation (within a 10 degree window) every time I swap in a new one.. I pull my readings from the PCM via software to find what IT thinks the engine is running, because that is the most important reading of all of them..

I hate to tell you this, but you'll likely need to go through several stats too, in effort to find one that does what it's 'sposed to do, and when it's 'sposed to do it..

 

I never thought of it that way, but it makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint. You don't need great precision in manufacturing if everything you make can meet some spec. So you build the things without great precision, then stuff 'em into an oven. As the temperature is stepped up, you pluck out those that are mostly open at some temperature and give them the corresponding number.

Carbon composition resistors are made in just that way -- unless it's completely faulty, it doesn't matter what the value is. You just measure it and paint it accordingly. 9430 ohms? 10k 10%. 9873 ohms? 10k 5%. And so on.

Hmmm...

 

Well thats stupid... I guess Ill go back to NAPA and swap it out for another.