update: My P0455 Code (EVAP) is fixed. The charcoal box under the passenger side was disconnected and hanging by one plug out of the 3. connected, got a new bracket and check engine is gone.

next: my two stuck spark plugs, #4 was completely screwed, had to PB blast and let sit over night, and break the metal casing to get it out BC it was bent. Got it out, it was twice the gapping it should be. #8 is still stuck, going to PB blast and wrench that out soon, it is still popping and chugging.

I will be switching out #8 tomorrow, also looking into a new ign wire and 02 sensors OR gutting my cat and and welding false 02 sensor holds to not run codes. My start up is weak and so is my MPG(7-8), plenum will get replaced after xmas if it can make it.

 

update: CHECK ENGINE BLINKING? EVAP code is back, #8 is misfiring, truck will start then die off until i gets warm or I revv for 5-15seconds.

The popping and cracking is gone when it chugs and loses power but now it just smells bad, #8 has been stuck for a while so Im curious thinking it started to foul the cat as I have read on here.

Also when the pedal is at a slight push, my truck shakes bad, but if it's idle or i'm accelorating fast, it drives fine.

A buddy think my ignition coil is a source of many problems, so that and #8 will be changed tonight, if the chugging and smell still occurs after I am gonna dip my hands and grab a magnaflow cat to put on or gut it.

Ill keep updates, and I checked my plenum, looks great.

Any ideas?

 

Got #8 out after removing the heat shield, runs good. still loses power/sluggish so I think it's a result of a clogged cat.

My cold starts are getting bad, put a new ignition coil on this morning instead of last night and the problem still exists. ideas?

 

Just throwing this out of thin air cause I'm not 100% but maybe tps?

 

You have alot of good input from prior posts and there is a lack of feedback from you on some of them.


See this post by gdstock about just removing the front O2 sensor. Zip tie it safely in the area as you are not taking it off the harness, just out of the exhaust. Why is this a diagnosis step? B/c it will let you know (somewhat) the condition of your Cat and related. If the truck responds better with the sensor out, then that gives you more support for a clogged cat condition.


My comment about the wires and the link to the TSB is about ROUTING the wires. It would be clear if plugs were swapped on the cap, however, the wire routing is an issue with these engines for induction issues. It's not clear that you understand that from your reply. Check out the TSB as something else to rule out as a contributor to the problems you're having.





So what was the condition of the #8 plug? There is info here that would help you factually determine if a clogged cat is present.


A TPS could also be a culprit, but I'd suspect some engine rpm flaring associated with that and none has been mentioned. That's based on my experience though.

 

Apologize from the lack of details, did not notice I was not supplying them but your 100% right.

I reread your TSB post and understand it more clearly, I failed to do so completely the first time, I will check the wiring for that tonight.

Okay, #8 porcilen (spell check) was cracked but I believe it was from my ripping the shield off, it was double gapped just like #4, but all the others were gapped and are correctly.

There is RPM random jumps, and fluxuation at idle or stop.

Where is the TPS located? Got some extra work in this week so I could pick that and a IAC up from the store and try it out.

I honestly forgot about the 02 sensor test *idiot* so I will do that tonight aswell.

 

The tps is on drivers side of the tb. It'll be a 3 wire plug.

 

Looking at your vid you can see the exhaust leak or cracked pipe at the top of the cat. That exhaust leak right next to the O2 sensor is driving the pre-cat O2 sensor crazy and is causing the PCM to dump fuel because it's see a lean fuel mixture. Replace the cat and O2 sensors.

 

Just another side not: When someone tells you that your coil may be bad....but truck will actually fire up and run....they are probaby wrong. It is possible, but checking for a strong spark first could potentially save you money. Too many people are of the "part swap" mentality, expecially if it is with someone else's money.

That is why many of us will suggest ways to check and verify before we say rel=lace something.

Notice, the post earleir was "Check TPS" and not just replace TPS. I would also recommend checking the IAC.

If you have not done so, download the service manual HERE. It will detail how to check TPS and IAC.

And your feedback is important to allow us to provide good info for you to try.

 

The scanner does show i'm running lean, I am going to have a shop replace my cat Monday, I have a apt set up. Do the 02s need replaced as well if there is that problem/leak?