All Star
No, just ordinary sockets. One has to be a 14mm 12 point for the spindle bolts. Some use a hand press for the bearing cups, but others get bye using the right size socket and taping them out with a hammer. Don't have to remove the axle nut, you can just remove the spindle bolts and remove the hub assembly and axle as one unit. Oh yeah, need the right size allen wrench for the calipers, don't recall the size. Will need a torque wrench to put the spindle bolts back in to 125 lb./ft.
Actually, the 14mm socket and allen wrench is all that's required to get it apart.
Actually, the 14mm socket and allen wrench is all that's required to get it apart.
Retired Moderator - RIP
Everyone has to learn sometime, but, highly suggest once you get the axle out, bring it to a machine shop and let them replace the ujoint. And as Arde has stated, be very careful when you slide it back in so you don't ruin the seal. The hard part is going to be separating the hub assembly from the steering knuckle anyway. It most likely is not just going to slide right out. If/when you get it out. Make sure you clean both mating surfaces and use anti seize compound on those surfaces before reinstalling.
I did determine it is the ujoint on the right front drivers side. I had a appointment for tomorrow to have it fixed. Decided not to try it myself. Thought I could make it one more day but today on my way home it really started a hard clunk and whined and then my truck slowed down. Pulled over to the side of the road and the truck didnt want to go forward or backwards unless I gave it a lot of gas. Had it towed, will the ujoint cause that when it finally has just had enough?