Rear end whine/Locking diffs
Rear end whine/Locking diffs
After reading a past thread and searching the differential thread, I propose a couple of questions.
My rear end I think is going, it whines louder than my exhaust and I have a flowmaster 40. Its a Chrysler 9.25 and in the past month I have changed the fluid. This would be sign of no return pretty much right? I would like to replace it with a locking diff but I'm not too sure what brand, if anyone could recommend anything like detroit locker. I rather be able to lock/unlock it from the cab over posi. Or would getting new ring and pinion gears fix that problem? I don't know exactly what the issue is, and I really want 4:10 gears.
Only when I make left turns, my truck will buck. Let me explain, usually when anyone makes a left turn, for example onto a two lane road where you have to cross and then make the turn, it will shift perfectly fine from 1-2, and almost mid-turn it will downshift back to 1 for a half second and then back into second as I begin to accelerate. I have no idea why. I don't think its my transmission as much something wrong with my rear end because besides that my transmission is perfectly fine. It has also happened that as I was going around a bend to the left, giving a little more gas than normal, my rpms just shot up to 4k, and I know my tires were not spinning.
I want to put 4:10 in the front and rear. Compared to my 3:55 current in the front and rear (Dana 44- Front) (Chrysler 9.25- Rear) and I remember reading that I cannot change the gears from 3:55 to 4:10 in the front due to not enough carriers, is it possible to change that? Or is it not worth it to do that and just get a locking Dana 44/60 in the front with 4:10.
One last and final question, with changing the differentials, does this require any other type of modification? Like to the axle or anything else?
Thank you.
My rear end I think is going, it whines louder than my exhaust and I have a flowmaster 40. Its a Chrysler 9.25 and in the past month I have changed the fluid. This would be sign of no return pretty much right? I would like to replace it with a locking diff but I'm not too sure what brand, if anyone could recommend anything like detroit locker. I rather be able to lock/unlock it from the cab over posi. Or would getting new ring and pinion gears fix that problem? I don't know exactly what the issue is, and I really want 4:10 gears.
Only when I make left turns, my truck will buck. Let me explain, usually when anyone makes a left turn, for example onto a two lane road where you have to cross and then make the turn, it will shift perfectly fine from 1-2, and almost mid-turn it will downshift back to 1 for a half second and then back into second as I begin to accelerate. I have no idea why. I don't think its my transmission as much something wrong with my rear end because besides that my transmission is perfectly fine. It has also happened that as I was going around a bend to the left, giving a little more gas than normal, my rpms just shot up to 4k, and I know my tires were not spinning.
I want to put 4:10 in the front and rear. Compared to my 3:55 current in the front and rear (Dana 44- Front) (Chrysler 9.25- Rear) and I remember reading that I cannot change the gears from 3:55 to 4:10 in the front due to not enough carriers, is it possible to change that? Or is it not worth it to do that and just get a locking Dana 44/60 in the front with 4:10.
One last and final question, with changing the differentials, does this require any other type of modification? Like to the axle or anything else?
Thank you.
Champion
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,717
Likes: 10
From: N/A
Some good q's there but before them, what are your plans for the truck? what's the biggest tire you ever plan to put on the truck? For your diff whine it might just be the factory lsd letting go, pull the diff cover and do a full inspection.
Future plans would most likely consist of 33 inch tires (285/75/r16) or 35 inch tires at the max. I'm going to have to do that. I had a good deal of getting the fluid changed done at Goodyear, didn't note any substantial issues, but I guess a personal inspection would probably be best.
