Map & IAC voltage concern
Hey, just wondering if someone can clear this up for me.
So my truck idles lopey after two mins on a cold start, kinda like it has a big cam, and after 30 seconds of that it kicks up to 1100rpm and then smoothes out
So i had the DRB hooked up to my truck today and while in open loop the MAP sensor read 3.9volts. Once it warmed up and was idling normal the Map was at 1.2v-1.8v with the pressure reading at .2Hg. Once i raised the throttle to about 3000rpms the pressure reading went to .21-.21Hg and the Map voltage stayed about the same. Ins't it supposed indirect with each other?
So my truck idles lopey after two mins on a cold start, kinda like it has a big cam, and after 30 seconds of that it kicks up to 1100rpm and then smoothes out
So i had the DRB hooked up to my truck today and while in open loop the MAP sensor read 3.9volts. Once it warmed up and was idling normal the Map was at 1.2v-1.8v with the pressure reading at .2Hg. Once i raised the throttle to about 3000rpms the pressure reading went to .21-.21Hg and the Map voltage stayed about the same. Ins't it supposed indirect with each other?
I don't know the values off hand for the sensors, I suggest you download one of the service manuals from the FAQ/DIY section and look through it. Kind of like anyone of us will have to do to answer your question.
i don't know.
every year or two or three my idle acts up. its done it so many times i've got a collection of 1 or 2 known good tps and iac's. so i swap in a good one and if it doesn't fix it i keep that part and swap the other. if it does fix it i throw the old one away.
not overly scientific, but it works for me.
surging idle for me is usually TPS.
every year or two or three my idle acts up. its done it so many times i've got a collection of 1 or 2 known good tps and iac's. so i swap in a good one and if it doesn't fix it i keep that part and swap the other. if it does fix it i throw the old one away.
not overly scientific, but it works for me.
surging idle for me is usually TPS.



