Leaf Spring Eye Bolts
 

Wow... so - feeling like I may get teased, but I have got to ask. How does one remove the rear leaf spring bolts? The bolt that holds the leaf spring to shackle is inaccessible and the bolt going through the shackle to frame is accessible except for when I go to pull it out... it's too long and won't get past the frame.

Feel free to tease, but please provide some input too. Most of these bolts are frozen solid.

I'll head back out to play with it more.

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...psd48f9585.jpg

****. I just realized looking at that picture that it is actually hitting the tow hitch. Son of a ... well ... I'll just cut it off, go buy new bolts, and put it back up in reverse. Still annoying though.

You got it.

Cut the bolt or drop the receiver.

I opted to leave the receiver in place and install in reverse, like you are planning to do.

Works great!

Great success! New vs Old below! The new leafs are apart of the skyjacker lift kit I got my hands on.

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps200c2372.jpg

Not gonna lie, glad I saw your post since I was worried I'd come back, put up my post and suddenly see a "NO DON'T!" ;o)

Driver side is turning into a pain. Like everyone that has done this knows. I'm trying to avoid moving the fuel tank. I've got the shackle bolt undone so the rear of the leaf is loose. I've cut the front bolt, but it will NOT budge. I've heated it, used a hammer, used an air chisel, no joy. It is not moving at all.

Got a sawzall? Get between the spring, and the mount, and shave the bolt. Pull the spring out, and knock anything that is left in the frame side mount out. I don't recommend trying to cut them with the torch, don't wanna thrash the mounts.

Hmmm.... I'm going to look. I have a sawsall, but I am not sure if I have metal blades.

I also have an angle grinder with cutting blade and an air cutter (not sure if that is the term?) with cutting blade. Yeah, I'll just cut the **** out of it.

Random question for those willing... looks like the bushings are utterly thrashed from years of abuse. I don't see a "shackle" bushing out there an an option, but I can pick up shackles for $27.73 with no tax/shipping from Amazon. I'm thinking of picking them up unless anyone thinks it's a waste?


Oh, and as always - thanks for the input!

InfO.

Should be leaf spring bushings available in various selected materials.... might even be able to pick them up at your local auto parts store. Having good bushings in there makes them quieter, and ride nicer. (well, as nice as a truck gets......)

The new leaf springs have bushings already in them, so the kit doesn't have any. I'll look around, but being in NB... likely not.

Thanks for the tips, dropped the driver side leaf. So both leafs are out, now I can take some time and wire brush the axle clean prior to priming and painting.

InfO.

Edit: What have I learned so far about my truck... don't waste time trying to PB and wrench, just torch and/or cut it.

Get the new shackles it's worth it. It took me three blades per bolt to cut through them good milwaukie blades to. As for just moving the gas tank ya right been there tried that might as well have just removed the tank it was the only thing I did not do. After undoing everything hooked to the pump and the fuel fill line and vent line for fear of breaking it I just had enough room to get my fingers in there to hold the bolt with the straps at full relaxe.

Edit: At least your shackle bolts came out mine were rock solid to the bushing.

Pix just cuz.

Attachment 39788

Attachment 39789

We're thinking alike ;) I just went ahead and ordered new ones. I didn't feel like dealing with removing the old shackles from the old leafs either. I will grab them when I rip down to Houlton, ME this weekend. I will need to pick up new bolts for the new leaf springs as well - I suspect nothing special, just grabbing a bolt from Home Depot or Home Hardware will do?

One thing about this Skyjacker kit... the instructions are great and all, but I've got a lot of stuff that came with it that are NOT mentioned in the instructions. Like a ****load of bushings that are clearly not body mount bushings, so no clue what they are. Some hardware and a few other things to sort out.

Random note - the SS brake line I ordered was not what I thought it was. It _is_ the brake line that goes from the frame/angle bracket down to the axle and has the square brass piece which looks like a junction - but I had expected more cable to run out to each drum. Oh well. I'll keep an eye out for stuff on sale.

Grade 5 or better 14mm dia so no not just your ordinary bolt.

Post picks of the extra parts in one of your threads and send them to me in a email see what we can do to help you out. E brake cable like stuff? Nope not needed.

Will do.

And I wish I could merge all my random truck threads on here ;o) I started on the reman of the rear brakes. Fun times, never done it before, but found an outstanding DIY on here (as usual), my service manual, and just went with it!

It looked pretty bad to me, had to wire-brush a few parts to clean them up. Glad I went ahead and ordered as many parts as I did:

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...psa0c3bfd3.jpg
ROUGH!!!

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps640612a2.jpg
Just as rough in my opinion, but I've also never done this before.

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps66b70976.jpg
Old parts

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps55d6f6f3.jpg
Old shoes and more...

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2a5f9cb0.jpg
New Parts!

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps09119ae4.jpg
One cleaned up, one more to go

I had to remove the angle bracket for the brake line, which is supposed to be lowered for the lift (which, I don't actually think I need to do anymore since I have the 8" SS braided line).

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6f717538.jpg

However, as you can likely see, the hard line going into that bracket is pretty corroded and well - it's leaking now. Oh well. One more thing to add to the list!

InfO.

Got it done. Was some swearing involved when putting on the shoes.

Hopefully it's correct, though, not entirely sure as it does not look like the adjuster can easily be adjusted.

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps12055d64.jpg

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3a936228.jpg

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...psb9189c86.jpg

InfO.

I take it back, easily adjustable. While the drum is on. Hmmm... I don't think it's adjustable with the drum / wheel on though. It looks like there is punch / cutouts but they have not been.

Should make for interest on the driver side since I can't seem to get that drum to budge despite hammer and penetrating oil.

It's right, you need to punch out the metal tabs in the backing plate to adjust when the drum is on, don't forget to put rubber plugs in the holes after you are done.

For the stuck drum, if you have a new drum try a BFH that might work, or you might need to back off the shoes through the backing plate holes.

Edit; I have had to remove the axle and the drum as one piece, then beat the drum off the axle once out. This involves removing the diff cover and the c clip inside the pumpkin.

I figured as much for the punches - the refurb kits I bought come with rubber plugs. I'll take a punch and hammer and knock atleast one out on each side.

As for that other drum.... I really hope it isn't THAT much of a hassle. Don't feel like doing that ;o)

Going to see if I can punch out the adjustment slot on the stuck side and ease the brakes off first.

Edit: BFH won the day. Thankfully I did purchase extra drums!