Burning Oil - Headed for rebuildsville?
I'm having to add about a Quart in between oil changes.
I Change the Oil / Filter every summer, regardless of weather I'm at 5000k Or not.
There is no visual leaking under the truck, At least not enough to be losing a quart in between changes, I never see any puddles underneath either.
I have no smoke coming from the Exhaust.
My Coolant is clean, and there are no bubbles if I run the engine and pop the cap off, so I don't suspect Head Gasket troubles.
Assuming I am inline for an engine rebuild, what does one generally set a person back? I don't think im knowledgeable enough to tear apart my engine.
I Change the Oil / Filter every summer, regardless of weather I'm at 5000k Or not.
There is no visual leaking under the truck, At least not enough to be losing a quart in between changes, I never see any puddles underneath either.
I have no smoke coming from the Exhaust.
My Coolant is clean, and there are no bubbles if I run the engine and pop the cap off, so I don't suspect Head Gasket troubles.
Assuming I am inline for an engine rebuild, what does one generally set a person back? I don't think im knowledgeable enough to tear apart my engine.
I'm on mobile sorry. No signatures show for anyone
So if that's fixed, and still fixed. Next step is to do a compression test. It will tell you what kind of shape you're in.
Do a dry test and them a wet test. The only difference is the wet test you squirt a little oil in the cylinders before you crank it.
If numbers jump significantly between dry and wet, then it's rebuild time. All should be within 10% of each other and all above 100PSi to be in spec
A good rebuild, done right, would be an easy 3-4 grand. Especially if you have to have a shop do all the work.
Might want to consider a long block if you just want a stock engine
So if that's fixed, and still fixed. Next step is to do a compression test. It will tell you what kind of shape you're in.
Do a dry test and them a wet test. The only difference is the wet test you squirt a little oil in the cylinders before you crank it.
If numbers jump significantly between dry and wet, then it's rebuild time. All should be within 10% of each other and all above 100PSi to be in spec
A good rebuild, done right, would be an easy 3-4 grand. Especially if you have to have a shop do all the work.
Might want to consider a long block if you just want a stock engine
A quart in between oil changes at 170,000 miles isn't terrible when you consider the time and cost of a rebuild. If its got good power, not smoking, no oil drips on the ground and no check engine lights are coming on, I'd drive it for at least another 20,000 - 50,000 miles before I'd consider a rebuild.
BTW, check to see if you see a puff of blue-ish smoke coming out of the exhaust at start-up after the truck has sat overnight. If you see that, I'd suspect valve guides/seals, especially at that mileage level.
BTW, check to see if you see a puff of blue-ish smoke coming out of the exhaust at start-up after the truck has sat overnight. If you see that, I'd suspect valve guides/seals, especially at that mileage level.
Do you still have the cat converter? They like to hide blue smoke from burning oil. As mentioned next guess would be valve stem seals if the compression test comes back ok. My truck only smokes a little bit at idle because of the valve seals. One day I'll get the motivation to put new ones in 

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A quart in between oil changes at 170,000 miles isn't terrible when you consider the time and cost of a rebuild. If its got good power, not smoking, no oil drips on the ground and no check engine lights are coming on, I'd drive it for at least another 20,000 - 50,000 miles before I'd consider a rebuild.
BTW, check to see if you see a puff of blue-ish smoke coming out of the exhaust at start-up after the truck has sat overnight. If you see that, I'd suspect valve guides/seals, especially at that mileage level.
BTW, check to see if you see a puff of blue-ish smoke coming out of the exhaust at start-up after the truck has sat overnight. If you see that, I'd suspect valve guides/seals, especially at that mileage level.







